원정 개요

Bird and Le Marie arrive Pokhara 1 May
Rest of expedition about 7-8 days behind

All fit

2 successful expeditions on this route - D II
D III

Has been used by at least 4 expeditions

DII - 2
DIII - 1
DIV - 1

Probably much also earlier Japaneses expedition on recce.

John Smith and Pat Gunson had moved through about an hour earlier that morning.

Bill March ahead; Hodgson and Ian Jones behind were a area of avalanche that hit 4 Sherpas; rear some way back by Pete McGowan. British not touched at altitude by great luck.

200 ft of ice and snow - was a huge fall of ice - into gully that covered snow in couloir down with it; block 10 ft big hit couloir, broke to bits and swept it clear of snow.

"If the rock had not been there ahead of him and the blocks hadn't going over him he would have been swept way" says Bird.

C1 first occupied 10 April by McGowan.


Bill March

4 Sherpas.
At 16,0000 ft Armstrong and Wallis had reached site on 9th.
C2 would have been at about 17,200 ft over ridge which was about 18,200 ft.
Sherpas bodies cremated near base camp at Mukut.


Wireless from Bird - rec'd 19 April 74

RAF expedition to D-IV forced to abandon attempt on D-IV due to loss of 2/3 Sherpas strength in avalanche involving 4 Sherpas and 6 members. Expedition is expected leave BC approx 23 April and arrive Pokhara approx 7 May.


Bird, via helicopter on 16 April 74

Icefall above C1 caused instant death of 2 Sherpas Dawa Tensing and Kami Sarki, on 14th, 9:05 am. 3rd Sherpa, Ang Chering, died from injuries on 15th, 2:15 am. 4th Sherpa, Ang Nima, evacuated by helicopter [at Shanta Bhavan in fair condition]. All remaining members fit and well, future of expedition under consideration, but abandonment probable.


MP Khanal, MFA - 15 April 74

Yesterday 9 am, big avalanche near BC Mukut. 3 Sherpas died and 1 seriously injured. Helicopter asked for rescue.


Dhaulagiri IV

Postcard from Peter Addis dated 26 March 74 (reached KTM 8 April 74)

"We are now at a place called Dhorpatan after walking for 9 days, and have got stuck here as we have run out of porters and we need 27 more to carry on. So main party have gone on and I have stayed with 2 Sherpas and I shop while head man of village gets more porters.


JOM Roberts - 8 April 74

Dhaulagiri IV left Pokhara on 15th March, so 9 days to Dhorpatan gets them there on 23rd.

Says main party left Dhorpatan on 25th, taking 12 days more to base camp gets them to BC, on 5th or 6th April.


Dicky Bird - 11 March 74

15 climbers
3 air
1 Navy
2 Army
9 RAF

From N Face or NW Buttress
7 Sherpas including sirdar Ang Phu
22 days trek ex-Pokhara to BC
Leave KTM starting today: - lost 15-16th

Leave Pokhara 15th, arrive BC about 7 April.
4 high camps; base 13,000 ft at Lake; summit mid-May.


JOMR - 14 Feb 74

Bird and rest arrive 11th March - to Dhorpatan.
Leave 7th March ex-Pokhara walking to Dhorpatan and next Bird and party there; all walk to BC.

7-8 Sherpas - very strong

Total 18 members including
1 botanist
2 zoologist
1 doctor not concerned with expedition
14 remainder - RAF Dr. who stays basic camp
Not all RAF - some Army (for Everest)

12/7

Wing Commander D Bird
Tactics Wing
The Royal School of Artillery
Larkhill, Salisbury, Wiltshure

1973 RAFMA-Cambridge Univ. expedition: 10 RAF climbers, 4 Cambridge men for glaciology west of Everest. Bird to be overall leader; JOM Roberts to join.


Letter from Dicky Bird

Arrived Mukut 6 April after 23 days from Pokhara via the lower route over the single Jangla from the same Khola. Marched 21 days covering some 8 to 10 miles a day. All now have a real appreciation of the climate and topography of Western Nepal! Surprised at the heat. West of Dhorpatan rain in the same khola some 17 times by "wading." The Jangla did not have much now on the southern slopes but quite a lot on the other side. We provided the porters with boats and goggles (card board slits).

But party of 3 have spent 1 week Lumsum 1 week Dhorpatan and intend 1 week at Tarakot. Dunachi from Wednesday 10 April then up to Mukut.

Today we have had 4 men opening the route over the Chorten ridge and should have advance, have C2 and C1 (this side of ridge) occupied in the next 7 or 8 days. I have written to to Jimmy. We have been able to have radio.