원정 개요

BC near Kangchung - as far as yaks could go Dzasampa.

All in BC by 29 Nov and all 6 to Dzampa on 30th. On 1 Dec set off in 3 pairs taking different lines looking for best way up. Czechs got 1/2-day ahead of Burgess and Marshall while 2 Americans lost 2-3 days on wrong approach. Czech pair reached summit while Canadian and American pairs, who were slower moving up mountain, did not and had to abandon climb because of lack of food and race against time, fearing more new snowfall would trap them and prevent their getting out alive. Had very difficult time getting load-carrying yaks to low BC in Nov.

Marshall froze several fingers and one toe on 6 Dec and was developing altitude sickness that day. 1 American getting sick on 7 Dec, Becik very slight frostbite on nose.


Marshall - 20 Dec 85

2 Czechoslovaks - Becik and Stejskal:

1 Dec - biv on Gyabrag Glacier
2 & 3 Dec - biv at 6400m on Spanish 1984 route
4 Dec - biv at 7400m on Spanish route
5 Dec - to summit and returned to 7400m
6 Dec - biv in descent
7 Dec - ABC

Marshall:

1 Dec - biv on Gyabrag Glacier, just below on Schneider map
2 Dec - biv just below ridge near Spanish 1984 C2 at 6000-6100m
3 & 4 Dec - biv at 6800m on Spanish 1984 route
5 Dec - biv at 7400m above Spanish 1984 C4 (on their route)
6 Dec - very cold (-40 to -50 degrees in the morning) and both men had headaches,
Marshall blurred vision, so instead of going for summit as planned,
they descended

Marshall got frostbitten fingers and toe on 6th Dec; they had taken only 5 days food with them and had none above ABC so abandoned climb especially in light of Marshall's frostbite.


Athans - 20 Dec 85

2 Americans - Athans and Ballenger

1 Dec - made carry towards North Face and returned to ABC
2 Dec - at ABC
3 Dec - biv on moraine at 5900-6000m north of point 6446 and of rocky area
4 Dec - climbed due east to about 6400m just below col of 6517m south
of Palung Ri, then returned to bivouac site of 3 Dec.
5 Dec - biv in moraine of Gyabrag Glacier sout of U on Schneider map, at bottom
and south of triangular rock almost east of "c" in Glacier's name.
6 Dec - biv at 6800m on Spanish 1984 route at same site as Canadian pair
biv of 3 and 4 Dec
7 Dec - descended (attempted abandoned)