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Yamagata University Himalayan Expedition 1974

Kanjiroba South · 1974 · 봄 (1) · Japan

원정 개요

Editor's Note: According to reports published in 1974 in the Iwa to Yuki, this team may have climbed Kasi Dalpha instead of Kanjiroba South.


Kamei & Co. - 25 May 74

Kanjiroba Main Peak from South Face to East Ridge

27 April names ok
28 April names ok

27 April summiters climbed from C4 at 6:00 am and return to C3 after 5:00 pm. Ice and snow ridge not so strong or steep, fixed rope, cloudy.

28 April also from C4 about 6 am and reached summit 10 am on previous party's fixed ropes and return to C3 at 4 pm - little fine.

Most days cloudy afternoon, evening snowfall.

One member not reached summit: Dr not so strong climber.
No accidents, no frostbite.
All arrive yesterday - maybe one week in Nepal.


MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 74

Summit: 2 members: Morishige Nakano, Akira Shiraishi, Annu Sherpa on 28 April, 12:40 pm. Returned to 3rd camp same day.

2nd summit team reached summit 29 April, 10 am and returned to C3.

4th and final camp, 6400m, 26 April. Leave Base 2 May.


Kamei - 9 March 74

6 arrived today; total 7
Jagdula Khola
BC at 4000m same place as Tyson's
4 camps above base; C4 6000m
Leave KTM 19 to to Jumla by air

South Face route; new route maybe
1973
1970 - south side (not face)

2 Sherpas

  • 내부 원정 ID2329
  • 원본 EXPIDKJRS74101
  • 대장Eiji Kamei
  • 루트 (Route)S Face-E Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6883m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Eiji KameiJapanLeader성공--
Kachio ItoJapanDeputy Leader성공--
Johroh KameiJapanExp Doctor---
Morishige NakanoJapanClimber성공--
Naoshi OhtakeJapanClimber성공--
Akiyoshi SakuradaJapanClimber성공--
Akira ShiraishiJapanClimber성공--
Anu SherpaNepalSirdar성공--

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1974 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1974 · 잡지 (3) · MM
· 1974 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520501/Asia-Nepal-Kanjiroba · 1974 · 웹사이트 (5) ·