원정 개요

23 April sirdar injured and evacuated to KTM. 2nd Sirdar injured 8 May.

Naganuma ill, evacuated to KTM 21 May (Naganuma walked but wanted sit). Sick suddenly at C4 1 May and stayed 3 days there and then C3 2 days and then down. Helicopter brought him from BC today.

Ichikawa and Obara summited 5:05 pm 18 May and C6 10:50 pm; started 5 am. Ichikawa slight frostbite, now in BC with all members yesterday.

2nd attack planned, but bad weather so abandoned. Leave BC 24 May and reach KTM 7 June via Biratnagar.

Same route as French. No Japanese accidents, not yet.


MP Khanal, MFA - 20 May 74

18 May summit, 5:05 pm:
1) Ichikawa
2) Soji Obara
Left C6 at 5 am, 7150m and returned to C6 at 10:45 pm.

Takeshi Naganuma is seriously ill from 10 May, undergoing treatment at BC and helicopter requested.


MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 74

C5 on 5 May 6900m; scheduled C6 by 9 May and attempts before 13 May if weather good.

2 members [Miyazaki and Azuma] and 2 Sherpas [Ang Phurba and Tenzing] swept 150 feet by avalanche on 8 May 11 pm from C5. 2nd sirdar Tenzing badly injured while others minor.

Now sudden bad weather and continous snowfall progress as per earlier plan impossible.


MP Khanal, MFA - 26 April 74

Accident: Sirdar Karma fell into 25m deep crevasse 23 April, 6:30 am while going from C3 to C4. Seriouly injured, helicopter requested; to leave 12 noon to BC at Dudh Pokhari, 2 miles from Ghunsa village.


Kawase, Hashimura & Obara - 27 Feb 74

Tomorrow all leave by bus and truck to Dharan. 2-3 days to Dharan. Caravan starts 3 or 4 March and takes about 16 days to 20th base camp.

If crevasse don't prevent, will use 1962 French route. Summit day 5 May (in Japan is holiday for boys). Hope put all members on summit in 3 parties (perhaps not Dr. although climber but maybe stays in C3).


Mikio Kawase, Tokyo - 22 Feb 74

Seijo Univ Jannu Expedition 1974

7 today - total 9.
Leave KTM after 7 days to Biratnagar by truck, 1-1/2 days
Caravan starts 3 March, 2 weeks to BC at 4500m on Yamatari Glacier.

20 March start climbing. 6 high camps, C6 at 7300m.

Route: maybe both French expedition route via Yamatari Glacier and South Ridge.
Summit about 5 May, hope all members summit.
14 Sherpas and 6 local porters.

C3 to C4 and C6 to top difficult because very steep C3-C4 and ice board and overhang C6 -> summit.