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Yokohama Mountaineering Association Peak 29 West Face Exped

Peak 29 · 1974 · 봄 (1) · Japan

원정 개요

Dainobu & Shirai - 15 May 74

Isao Kishimoto, Toshiharu Shirai and Shigeo Dainobu arrive today; others came 20-22nd they still coming with baggage. All Ok.

Maximum altitude 5800m 17 April 1st time. Weather not so bad, not so good.

W Wall very difficult and very dangerous by falling stones which came very near expedition. C4 not yet on wall; C5 would have been on wall at about 5400m but could not find safe place.

All members reached 5800m


Hamal, MFA - 11 May 74 (11:55 am)

After pitched C4, reached 5800m and since no place for them to pitch more camps and since it dangerous, they have decided abandon expedition and on 13 May whole group will be leaving BC to return to KTM.


Y Furukawa (interp by Moore) - 8 Feb 74

Try from west side. One lady and 1 US and 17 Japanese member = 19 total.

This 1st attempt via West Face. Other expeditions:
1963 and 1969 on east side
1961 recce north
1970 East Ridge (does believe 1970 expedition reached summit)


Richard Moore, NYC

Leave KTM 16th to Pokhara by air. Base 1 March. Climbing 70 days; longest time over schedule for 7000m peak because face very long and difficult. Base to be dismantled 20 May. Longer than Everest and Annapurna South Face - 2500m altitude.

6 camps above base camp
1 sirdar and 9 Sherpas


Hiroshi Tsuchiya - 22 Jan 74

Peak 29 West Wall Expedition 1974

Same caravan route as Austrian Manaslu, but base camp lower near small river and forest at 3700m.

1960 Japanese expedition Osaka U tried West Face of Peak 29 but no success. Different caravan route - reached 7835m.

SW Wall very difficult not dangerous - many hanging glaciers. Maybe not climb via Wall but via west Ridge.

16 members arrive 7 Feb; other 2 already here since last Sept.

  • 내부 원정 ID2327
  • 원본 EXPIDPK2974101
  • 대장Fumio Tanaka
  • 루트 (Route)SW Face
  • 최고 도달고도5800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 19명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Fumio TanakaJapanLeader---
Masanori KobayashiJapanDeputy Leader---
Haruyuki OhuchiJapanClimbing Leader---
Shigeo DainobuJapanClimber---
Yoshikazu FurukawaJapanAdvisor---
Tadao HoriiJapanClimber---
Noriaki KamoJapanClimber---
Hiroshi KanekoJapanClimber---
Minoru KanekoJapanClimber---
Isao KishimotoJapanClimber---
Kichio KumasakiJapanClimber---
Richard MooreUSAClimber---
Toshiharu ShiraiJapanClimber---
Yoshihiro SugiyamaJapanClimber---
Seiichi TakahashiJapanClimber---
Eiko TanakaJapanClimber---
Hiroshi TsuchiyaJapanClimber---
Ryohei UchidaJapanClimber---
Minoru YanagibashiJapanClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. · 1974 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Peak 29 South-West Wall, 1974Furukawa, Yoshikazu · 1974 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
· 1974 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520001/Asia-Nepal-Peak-29-West-Face-Attempt · 1974 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/33/33/expeditions-and-notes-33/ · 1974 · 웹사이트 (5) ·