원정 개요

Dr Sumiyoshi & Noshi - 19 May 78

No falls, no accidents; all members good health.

3 Japanese members Toshio Noshi, Osamu Nonaka and Dr Kaoru Sumiyoshi and LO sick; arrive today by helicopter.

Today caravan to Hinko, reach Pokhara 23 May and 24 KTM.

Only members made route, Sherpas did not
Attack team left from C3

13 May 6 am left C3; left one tent at C4 site, reached top 5:15 pm and returned to C4 (biv) at 10 pm very tired but strong. Returned to C3 next day. Support [Okano and Shibano] in C3, no oxygen in C3 and no oxygen to summit.

One attack on summit only as monsoon coming. 1st try Ok and last chance:
Sherpas no move and members very tired.

Between C3 and C4 500m icefall very difficult (Germans found very easy 1st time).

Always same route as German route.

Between C1 and C2 many seracs and Sherpas very afraid; later than scheduled because of Sherpas.


MP Khanal, MFA - ? May 74

Takeshi Kikusawa and Shinsuke Fujiwara summited 17 May 5:15 pm and returned to C4 at 11 pm 6850m which these two had established same day. Left C3 6 am same day.

Expedition leaves BC 17 May.


MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74

C3 6330m, 25 April by 3 members; had minor accident 19 April fall of 30 meters by 1 member but very minor injuries.


Prabul Rana, MFA - 8 April 74

BC 30 March, 13:30 hrs, 4100m
Climbed up to sites after 31 March, 4800m - C1
5500m - C2


Arai - 2 March 74

KTM -> Pokhara by truck
BC in upper Modi Khola
Route German East Ridge from S

1971 Shinzu - West Ridge from S
1971 Spr ?

1 sirdar (Dawa Tenzing), 4 Sherpas