원정 개요

Suzuki - 15 May 74

All members arrive today.

SW Ridge very difficult - no success: not enough technique. 2nd avalanche lost much (30-70%) food and 10% equipment including all medicine.

Normal route, party's technique all right, but SW Ridge steep rock face - above C1 all fixed rope.

2 avalanches:
1st 4 April 10 pm. 1st BC hit and cut Sherpa's head and L0 50m in tent and
neck hurt.
2nd 7 April 11:00 hit 2nd BC, which 115m below and 1500m distant from 1st BC.

3rd BC made at 3700m, C1 and C2 not hit thus stayed same. No place for C4. Ridge very steep and very sharp and rock loose. 1 member slipped but not injured.

Only 3 days fine weather, maximum altitude 6000m 26 April. 400m in almost 2 weeks reached by Yokota & Suzuki (no kin).

Many small avalanches.

C4 to be placed 6400m but C3 only 5600m and no place for C4.
800m ice face above 6400m.
This route strong party maybe can climb, put C4 at 6000-6400m.

Suzuki looked at North Face easy slope but much snow which could avalanche; 1 week from village, only looking; food finished.

27 April all coming down; all in BC.
30 April-1 May all leave BC to village and thence all go look North Face.


MP Khanal, MFA - 5 May 74

Abandoned 27 April; reached 6000m and couldn't go higher.
C3 5600m was highest camp.


MP Khanal, MFA - 15 April 74

BC badly hit by avalanche, strong wind and heavy snow fall April 4 9 pm; most equipment and tents swept away including 8 people in tents but only 1 Sherpa injured avalanche came from 3000m, so shifted BC to 3700m to rescue climb from 11 April after moving BC.


MP Khanal, MFA - 4 April 74

LO reports bad weather with continuous snow 23-27 March; 26 inches of snow at bsse camp and above.


MFA - 22 May 74

Annapurna South base camp at 4200m 14 March.
Team will spend about 2 weeks at BC for acclimatization.
Weather so far clear and fine.


T. Suzuki - 20 Feb 74

Others 26 Feb arrive KTM
4 March leave for Pokhara by bus
Leave Pokhara 8 March; 7 days caravan to BC at 4200m in Kyumrung Khola
Route Kyumrumg Glacier to SW Ridge.
Summit 20 April
4 high camps, C4 6600m
SW Ridge new route
Sirdar and 4 Sherpas and 1 cook

Annapurna South expeditions' routes:
1964 - North Face
1970 - South Face
1971 Spr - East Ridge
1971 Aut - East Ridge
1972 - East Ridge
1973 - East Ridge

"I think 30% success, 70% no success." Rock face 400m and expedition small. French route South Face more difficult than SW Ridge, but Japanese 1964 North Face less difficult.