원정 개요

Hirano - 3 June 74

Hirano and Hiyama arrive 1 June, all others about 15 June. Turned back from probably 8400m (summit 8500m) because weather bad; very deep snow there and route far from last camp to summit.

Needed one more camp. C5 at 7950m. Needed about C6 but this expedition hadn't facilities. C4 -> C5 difficult climb.


MP Khanal, MFA - 26 May 74

Abandoned attempt, reached 8400m on 14 May by 2 members Pasang Sherpa and Ryuji Hirano, but could not reach summit because bad weather and snowfall.

C5 established by Kato and 6 Sherpas 13 May at 7950m.

SE ridge difficult because very deep snow; route is possible but problem is very big mountain.
All well, no accident.


Hirano - 14 Feb 74

Leader and 4 arrive today and Hirano here earlier. 5 others already arrived, left yesterday by bus to Dharan. Those in KTM leave KTM 18 Feb to Biratnagar and meet there those who left by bus. Leave Dharan 19 Feb. About 40 days caravan to BC on Yalung Glacier about 5400m. Reach BC end March/1st April.

Route from SE Ridge. 1955 British route up to 7000m, from which new route via SE Ridge, but not sure because may be many dangerous snow avalanches and may have to shift route. Final ridge sharp knife-ridge rather long. Kyoto Univ route was SW Ridge.

6 camps above BC, highest at 8000m
Summit about 10 May; hope put 2 or 3 teams on top but very difficult.
20 Sherpas including mailrunner; 16 climbing Sherpas.