원정 개요

Yamada - 3 June 74

4 members were sick: 1 in lungs from altitude, 2 liver and 1 very tired.

Mori and Othuka reached 6830m on 14 May, but Mori because sick at this altitude and therefore only Yamada and Othuka in C4 and well. Then stopped climbing 15 May.

West Ridge route very difficult: all rock C2-C3 all rock ridge: new route - left side of SW Face-West Ridge. 600m fixed rope between C2 and C3. C1 also rock: rock face and easy glacier and here 550m fixed rope; above C3 to C4 narrow snow ridge 500m rope; above C4 more fixed rope 200m and on glacier 200m; total 2050m fixed rope.

Possible reach summit by West Ridge with 8-10 members with 4-5 strong. One more camp necessary with (1000m) more fixed rope - camp about 7000m.

No accident, no yeti.

Leave Nepal 7 May


Churen

Abandoned 16 May due to bad weather and sickness of 4 members. Established C4 at 6650m 12 May. 2 members reached 6830m towards C5.


Suganumo - 21 May 74

Japanese embassy understands Churen Himal abandoned about one week ago; reached C4. Reason not known. Are on way to KTM.


MP Khanal, MFA - 4 April 74

LO reports bad weather has held up expedition at Gurjagaon; 8 days of continuous snow; still on way to base camp on 29 March.


8 Feb 74

22 Feb leader + 3 members arrive
2 here now and today

Go to Pokhara 28 Feb
West Ridge, same route 1969 and 1971,


Yamada - 26 Feb 74

28 Feb fly to Pokhara. Caravan 15 March (waiting for snow go off pass on) to 1 April at BC.

Base camp 4100m in Kaphe Khola for assault on West Peak.

1962 Japanese - north side?
1970 Koreans - east side
1969 Italians - West Ridge
1970 Japanese - West Ridge
1971 Japanese - West Ridge
1974 Japanese - West Ridge

Present expedition: 6 camps, C6 6900m on West Ridge
Summit attack 10-20 March
Maybe success; difficult route very steep

C3 6000m on col between Putha Hiunchuli and Churen = adv camp. thence C4, C5 and C6 on West Ridge.

Sherpas: 1 sirdar Ang Temba and 5 + 1 cook and 2 mailrunner and 1 kitchen boy


Hiroaki Yamada

Leave KTM 28 Feb
Charter flight to Pokhara
All members arrive today 22 Feb