원정 개요

Dotti and Carrara arrived yesterday from Kaierni on Pokhara road. Rest arrive 29-30-31st.

Dotti to go from C6 to C5 alone; just starting to take fixed rope when 1 foot into crevasse and he fell; tried to stop himself; not thinking of death, etc; stopped by flat angle; 1st part ice, then snow.

Route same as 1959 Japanese on NE Face,


Mayer - 18 May 74

Bonicelli's report:

Wall very hard to climb, such hard ice - mixed; at least 4 men in front and to get another man properly acclimatized in C6 take 6 days and not enough cooking gas for this. So on 12th would have had to cancel anyway.

Calegari, Rota, Bianchetti, Dotti team able to get 7450m where found small piece nylon rope left by Japanese 1959. Upper part reached by top and passed this, but could not continue without replenishing supplies of climbing equipment. Returned to C6 at about 7200m.

From C3, leader can see upper part of route. 8:30 am 8 May could see men coming down quickly instead of considered it almost a miracle that the author of such a flight could be not only alive but also able to talk by radio.

Sherpas carrying him to C4 and Bonicelli went to C4 to meet. From C4 Dotti himself walked with some suppport to BC on 10 May and 11 May. Dotti asked expedition to continue of going up. At 11 am had walkie-talkie with C4 and Mr Rota in C5 came on radio and says Dotti from C6 had fallen: 30m in air and 300m slide and he reached almost to C5. Dotti now came on air from C5 and just to hear his voice and had such emotion that just to see where he flew and fell.

Climb but Bonicelli decided to discontinue.

10 May from C4 to C3 and
11 May from C3 to BC

(10 May snow )

Arrive KTM 27 - May says Bonicelli 12 May.
Dotti apparently no bones broken, bruises all over.
Wall such hard ice requires expert climbers and good weather.
Dotti reached South Col with Manganoni.


MP Khanal, MFA - 17 May 74

Abandoned: accident Mario (Dotti)
25 Baisak = 8 May from 7100m, slipped 150m almost to 6950m.
Not seriously injured; spinal injury, slowly recovering.
Had reached 7450m and were satisfied with achievement; 50m above Japanese in 1959.
Leave BC Mon 20 Monday.


Khanal, MFA - 29 March 74

BC near Surung Khola 19 March (no altitude).


Khanal, MFA - 8 March 74

Himalchuli expedition left Trisuli Bazaar 4 March.


Dr. Bonicelli - 19 Feb 74

Bonicelli and 2 arrive 18 Feb
8 more after 5 days 24 Feb
Go to Trisuli Bazaar and thence Buri Gandaki
Climb: Chhulung Khola, East Face, attempted by Japanese in 1959.
(Japanese 1960 - NW Face).