원정 개요

Skarja & Soklic - 1 Nov 74

Ramtang Chang (Wedge Peak) climbed 6750m; unnamed peak climbed 6500m.

13 arrive today, rest tomorrow; no accidents, no illness, no frostbite. Powder avalanching swept Skarja, Riedl and Gradisar 100m down, but they on surface and not injured 21 Sept above C2 (6300m).

NW Face route used while returning from summit 6 Oct, one Sherpa Nima not far below C5 slipped from 7500m about 100m, but luckily he stopped himself with his axe.

Same route as 1965 expedition; top portion hard work especially for 1st group because deep snow which later became compacted.

5 Oct Gradisar, Pollack and Smolej climbed Ramtang Chang from expedition's C1; made one camp themselves; climbed Ramtang Chang's west side.

C6 never made; had planned it but not necessary.

1st summit team had poor weather reached summit at sunset and C5 in dark with torches. 2nd team had good weather and reached top much earlier.


MP Khanal - 7 Oct 74

Frank Jeromen
Marjan Manfreda
Janez Dovzan

Summit 5th Oct 10 am
Weather very fine; all members safe.


Jerin - 5 Oct 74

If want to put 10 members on top, need another camp at 7400-7500m. Looking for route from col west of Kangbachen to Yalung Kang for future expedition; and for this, also need this other camp. Extremely good relations with Sherpas up to time he left expedition 15 Sept. Sirdar Ngati from Solu very good man.


MP Khanal - 2 Oct 74

Success 3 members 29 Sept, 17:30 hours:
Stanislav Belak
Roman Robas
Peter Scetinin

All members well and weather fine.


MP Khanal - 1 Oct 74

C5 at 7250m 28 Sept
All members well and weather fine.


MP Khanal, MFA - 17 Sept 74

C3 at 6200m 4:00 pm 14 Sept
All members and Sherpas and weather Ok.

Zerin and Sherpa due to leave BC 15 Sept.


MP Khanal, MFA - 15 Sept 74 (message Friday from BC)

C2 at 5800m 12 Sept by 5 members
Weather fine and all members health Ok.


Shrestha, MFA - 11 Sept 74

BC 8 Sept 4900m
C1 9 Sept 5400m
All members well


Jerin - 19 Aug 74

Caravan left Biratnagar on 17th with all other members. Sherpas to Dankhuta to collect porters. Leader to Biratnagar and Dharan yesterday and Jerin leaves today. All leave Dharan 20th or 21st.

Arrive BC about 8 Sept at 17,000 ft 4900m on east side of Ramtang Glacier.

C1 established about same time as BC consolidated.
Summit after 20th Oct.


Approach March from Tone Skarja

The expeditions left Dharan on Aug 20th, climbed the same day over Sanguri Col. We have on our disposal 266 local porters under the leadership of five naikes. The total weight of all loads was about 7500 kgs. In the following days we climbed the Mahabharta Lekh by the route Dhankuta (1200m), Hile (1900m), Sinduwa (2100m), Thute (2300m), Cauki (2600m), and Gupha Pokhari (2800m) and descended by the track through Churza to Doban which is situated in the Tamur valley just under and opposite to Taplejung. The daily rate for local porters from Dharan to Doban was 15 Rs NC. From Doban we followed the usual Tamur valley track. At Nitlung village one day was lost in waiting (in vain) for the new porters from Doban. In crossing a small torrent Andhuva Khola one of the members was saved within a hair's breadth not to be washed away and to the Tamur Kosi.


Climb of Kangbachen Peak

On Sept 9th in spite of the thick fog and slight snowfall we pitched the first tents of the camp one at an altitude of 5750m and at the same time stored some 250 kg of equipment and food there. Because of a prolonged snowfall and fog in the next two days it was not possible to explore the safest route to the snowy plateau, where the C2 should be established.