원정 개요

All arrive KTM 14 Nov 74.

Tobari, Iwai, Fujinuma were ill from altitude and sent down for a week two times to nearest village at 2700m. Iwai completely recovered and reached C4. From 7050m retreated from heavy snowfall and danger of great snow slide and to protect members and Sherpas lives. 7050m reached by Tsuchida, Okano and Suzuki.

Sherpas on 23 Oct, day after they had made C5 at 6800m. Route West Ridge. If we could have 2 or 3 days more good weather could have succeeded. Needed 1 or 2 more camps; probably 1 camp and bivouac.

No avalanches hit expedition. No damage from 2 that went nearby. No accidents, no frostbite; no yeti.

Went to try Himalchuli again with somewhat different logistics BC->C1 1100m = too long, too big differece in height and tired out members; or might choose Chhulung Khola route to East Ridge and C4 would be at C2 or C3 altitude in make C3 advances base or even BC, arriving by helicopter.

By 23 Oct no food in C5 and rest possible carry up from C3 and C4, thus had to abandon. East Ridge very difficult, other routes easy.

Want to come again after 2-3 years.


MP Khanal, MFA - 31 Oct 74

Himalchuli abandoned. Increasing snowfall and strong wind since 29 Oct. Expect leave BC in few days.


Joshi, RSS - 24 Oct 74

Himalchuli established C5 at 6800m by Tsuchida, Okano and 2 Sherpas.


MP Khanal, MFA - 13 Oct 74

C2 5800m on 2 Oct 1:30 pm by K. Tsuchida and 2 Sherpas. Planned C3 within couple of days from 2 Oct.


Himalchuli - 25 Aug 74

Members arrive 31 Aug and leave KTM 10 Sept. Route to mountain via Dordi Khola and very difficult pass southwest of Bauda.

BC at Lidanda Glacier if can reach this way (MFA forbids via Buri Gandaki which expedition prefers, or prefers Marshyangdi Khola with BC on Musi Khola)

Climbing route: East Ridge from north if possible - same route of JAC 2nd expedition to Manaslu, but MFA may not permit reaching north side of East Ridge and south side of ridge very steep wall.


H. Mihara, Soyam Gakuin Univ - 11 Aug 74

Leave KTM 10 Sept. Main party arrive 13 Aug. Now 4 members in KTM (arrive 1 Aug) and all baggage.

Route not decided. Maybe not allowed go to north side. Have no detailed maps here, main party may bring with them.

4 Sherpas including sirdar (not many because of troubles last spring).
All members live in Tokyo.

Kuribayashi and Tokushisa maybe not go above BC and stay there only 2-3 weeks and return KTM and Japan.

Annapurna II leader died in mountains so expedition may not come to Nepal.