원정 개요

Yamakura - 5 Nov 74

1st summit on 20 Oct
2nd summit on 21 Oct and Lobsang Tshering Sherpa.

Many steep narrow ridges; climbed from East Ridge.

From BC to C4 very difficult, after that easy C4 at 6050m, a temporary camp made on 20th by other 2 other members (20th summiters slept C3).

20th summiters reached top 3:30 pm. 21st summiters slept C4 20th night and reached to 11:00 am and slept in C4.

3 members and 1 Sherpa avalanche 19 Sept Osaki, Uetake, leader and Lhakpa Norbu about 4700m and radio news had reported 5 Sherpas killed on Everest (1 related to 1 Lamjung Sherpa). After avalanche, changed route to icefall and Sherpas scared of difficulty this route. So 3 "very nervous" Sherpas left expedition 24 Sept am.

We worked 10 hrs/day they worked 3 hrs/day; they carried 10 kg, we carried 30 kg; after they left sometimes we worked 12 hrs/day.


Singh RSS - 25 Oct 74

17 Oct Kikuchi and Uetaka
21 Oct Osaki, Dr. Abe and Sherpa Lobsang Tenzing
Nepal and Japanese flags


MP Khanal - 21 Oct 74

C3 17 Oct 5840m climbing from SE Face.


MP Khanal - 29 Sept 74

14,500 ft dump camp at 4400m; date not given
(message from 27 Sept)

Had problem with Sherpas; 3 Sherpas returned to KTM
Only sirdar left (+kitchen boys, etc)


Lamjung West Peak

Climbed in 1955 autumn by West Germans under Heinz Steinmetz (17 Oct by Steinmetz and Juergen Wellenkamp).


Dr Abe - 29 Aug 74

4 arrived 27 Aug. Leave KTM about 5 Sept by road; leave Pokhara about 7 Sept; arrive BC about 14 Sept.

Route cannot say now; perhaps British route, perhaps another; = must reach it and see it; have few photos or information of south side; had intended to climb from north.


Osaki through advisor - 9 August 74

Osaki and Sasaki arrive 2 Aug. Others stayed in Japan until permit clarified; come to KTM after 25th maybe.

Expedition leaves KTM end of Aug to Pokhara; at Pokhara same days and then caravan: Siklis, Madi Khola.

Original plan to climb Lamjung from North Ridge; now north prohibited so now from southern side. Route: prefer some route different from British.

Had planned 4 camps above BC from north.
4 Sherpas including sirdar.