원정 개요

Jones - 10 Nov 74

Jones didn't say he refused to support summit bid, but did say not realistic to have 2 men try when C5 not yet established and only 3 climbers at all fit. Fritz really not very well.

Highest point reached 7800m on 17th or 18th Oct by Matija and Arnold.

Austrians reached 150m below this expedition's C4.


Korich - 10 Nov 74

"Came final push, we didn't have enough drive on part of climbers. Because of attrition rate, we had 2 on mountain and no one to support them. Democratically decided to stop. Fritz and Matija wanted to go ahead. I was at C2 but this first time was using crampons."

Highest point was 200 ft below Yugo C5 at 25,600 ft by Fritz and Matija, also by Larcher who had gotten frostbite about 5 days before end and he had to go down.

Final attack plan was Fritz, Matija, Arnold and Dave Jones to make attack and all had gone down to C1 for rest. C6 would be biv only at about 26,900 ft to be used only on summit night. Summit pair would not have needed to fix ropes.

But Arnold's frozen toes (mostly left feet) put him out of action. Fritz and Matija went up but Dave didn't feel it safe for 3; he then in good condition but had almost broken arm in fall.

Jeff Long had pulmonary edema but went up to C4, had difficulty at C4 and came down.

Andre at C3 had something at first diagnosed as malaria, but later doubted this diagnosis; he does not remember one day during which was delirious.

Korich, Fritz and Matija and 2 Sherpas went to C2 at end. Sherpas throughout refused to go above dump, below C3. Korich said he'd stay at C2, Dave could go to C3 Korich said and be ready for rescue if needed. Next day Fritz and Matija went to C3 and Mario went to C1 but not feeling very well, but Dave saying not safe without 4 high on mountain and he not willing to go up and staying at BC. Next day Fritz and Matija at C3 and BC said porters arrive in few days and some of us are going out; Arnold and Matija have tickets for certain dates; Andre not well. "So wind taken out of sails of Fritz and Matija."

Not a plot, they said we can't do it, lets go home - were homesick, sort of a fizzle at the end." Don't know whether would have succeeded; never had more than 4 climbers in condition at any one time.

Extremely little real friction amongst members and never were frictions, even on walkout, no recrimations to boiling point or sulking. We pushed above Austrians and near to Yugoslavia highest point with half then climbing strength and this without climbing oxygen. So with right small group and 2 top-rate Sherpas, I think it can be done." Weather cold and windy but climbable. Getting in a week, earlier would have helped.


Tollenaar, of Kangchungtse - 2 Nov 74

Re Makalu expedition:

Day we left our BC 25 Oct; that was the day they decided to give up, but 2 days later heard decided to go on. Heard Stammberger waited to go on. Still had not made C5, had 200m to rope to reach C5 site at about 8000m. Very cold and strong winds. Getting on well together; invited several Dutch to join them.


Montgomery - 27 Oct 74

Montgomery left Makalu BC 19 Oct and that day learned of Dr Ewelt's death (of HA sickness?) on Kangchungtse.

C4 of Makalu established Fritz alone 16 or 17 Oct and then put higher on 18th by 3 men.

Everyone well except Andre who had malaria-type illness but was recovering. Don't want to climb after 1 Nov.


rec'd - 23 Oct 74

From Read group postcards:

PC date:

12 Oct - climbers have established C4 and 2 more to go before the top
no date - Jones new helping to establish C4 with Stammberger 24,500 ft
12 Oct - C4 just about established
10 Oct - climbers have reached 24,000 ft and hope to make the top in 2 weeks.
11 Oct - summit bid should be about 25 Oct.

Makalu camps (expected) (from an expedition postcard)

BC 4900m
C1 5900m
C2 6300m - bottom of face
C3 6900m
C4 7400m
C5 7800m
C5 8250m


Stammberger - 1 Sept 74

BC at 15,000 ft.
4 high camps with possibly a 5th carried by summit team (just one tent)
Summit 10-15 Oct
Aspen Alpine Club formed by Stammberger to get permission for Makalu.


Stammberger - 31 Aug 74

3 Sherpas and 1 sirdar.
If South Face not possible, might straighten out Czech route or attempt some other route.
17 days from Dharan to BC.


Korich - 26 Aug 74

No climbing oxygen; dry chemical oxygen for emergency use. Scott Aviation and Dr. Clark.

Special platforms of designs; special oven for cooking; prototype some tents.
South Face route definitely.
Only 2-3 climbing Sherpas if any.

David Jones (Canada)
Jeff Long (Boulder)
Andre Ulrych (Aspen)

Total 9 climbers, none professional plus 9 visitors: scientists and support group.
Climbers:
US 4
Brit 1
Ger 1
Yugo 1
Argent 1
Canada 1


Rodney Korich - 24 March 74

He is "manager" of Stammberger's Makalu expedition, a small, light expedition, no oxygen, reintroducing alpine methods.
South Face route if Austrians don't succeed.
Want to do something different, maybe camp on summit for a week.


Stammberger - 15 Sept 73

4-6 climbers only on his Makalu fall 1974 expedition. No oxygen, "its completely unnecessary even on Everest." Route not yet decided.


Letter from Fritz Stammberger - Oct 8th, 1974

On October 3rd, Camp 3 was established by Matija Malezec, Fritz Stamberger, Arnold Larcher and Jeff Long.

The face is in reasonable condition with good footing on the larger snow and ice fields but vergass on the rock portions at times.

Also numerous but so far harmless avalanches make the traverses of the higher snowfield difficult. We have found many fix ropes of the Yugoslavs.

Except for the snow-free ascent to C1, we have made little use of Sherpas. Most carries have been made by members and support members.

The Verne Reed group and family arrived on Oct 1st. They brought relief supplies and an additional 4000 ft of rope. The expedition is now in fine shape with very good chances of success. The weather had cooperated with no major snowfalls or especially low temperatures. The average night minimum temperature is 10 below centrigrade at C2 at 20,790 ft.


Letter from Fritz - Nov 3, 1974

The expedition has met with a sudden, odd end. We had the mountain face well prepared upto 25,500 ft when we withdrew to C1 for rest before the final push. We, that is Matija and myself. The rest of the climbers, support members and Sherpas were at BC. Sometime during our rest, which coincided with our first unnerving but otherwise harmless storm, "Basecamp" decided that we had no chances and in order that we (Matija and me) would not act contrary to them, refused to come up again and withdrew their support.

Our doctor is trying to offer the "high attrition rate" as the official reason for not exiting. He claims that only Matija and I were the only healthy climbers left. I said to Matija, who like me suffered very much under this conspiracy, everyone in the world will buy this "attrition theory."


Letter from Fritz

On Oct 3rd, C3 was established by Matija Malezec, Fritz Stamberger, Arnold Larcher and Jeff Long.

The face is in reasonable condition with good footing on the larger snow and ice fields but verglass on the rock portions at times. Also numerous but so far harmless avalanches make the traverses of the higher snowfield difficult. We have found fix ropes of the Yugoslavs.

Except for the snow ascent to C1, we have made little use of Sherpas. Most carries have been made by members and support members.

The Verne Reed group and family arrived on Oct 1st. They brought relief supplies and an additional 400 ft of rope. The expedition is now in fine shape with very good chances of success. The weather had cooperated with no major snowfalls or especially low temperature. The average night minimum temperature is 10 below Centigrade at C2 at 20,790 ft.


Letter from Fritz - Sept 23, 72

Here are some of the details of the progress of our expedition:

BC are reached and established on Sep 17th after sixteen days from Dharan. The weather on the approach was miserable. We did not get a glimpse of any mountain until one day after reaching basecamp.

C1 was established on Sep 19 by Fritz Stammberger, Matija Malezec, Arhold Larcher and Jeff Long at 19,000 ft in the same location as the Yugoslavs, Austrians, Czechoslovakians.

C2 was established on Sept 22 by the same members at the foot of the South Face.

The weather has been predominantly overcast with short clear spells. It is good enough to work on the mountain.