Tokyo Metropolitan Himalayan Expedition to South Pillar
Dhaulagiri I · 1975 · 봄 (1) · Japan
원정 개요
Correct route for 1975 Spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was: South Ridge, not South Pillar (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978).
Amemiya - 14 May 75
All in KTM. 11 arrive yesterday. 1st group leave 25 or 30 May; others 20 June after some go trekking others sightseeing. 1st group of 3 including leader. Numao and Imura ashes slowly sent ot Japan.
C3 at 5800m on 18 March highest camp. 6200m highest point reached by Kazuharu Kohara, Takashi Maruyama, Yasuji Kato on 19 April.
Started climbing 10 April again. Could not make C4. Route very difficult, weather bad, most Sherpas did not want to go on but these not main reasons: leader decided.
South Pillar route is possible by some climbing route.
No other accidents, no frostbite, no yeti.
Fatal avalanche during night 25/26 March [1 am]. All 3 tents covered in C1 with 11 men. No one injured besides 5 killed. Heavy snowfall on 25 March.
Ranjan
Stopped climbing again after leader returned from quick trip to Tokyo where he received orders to stop. Most members wanted to keep climbing.
MP Khanal, MFA - 10 April 75
Abandoned expedition; decision from Tokyo received yesterday.
All bodies recovered next day after accident and cremated at BC.
Leave BC next week for KTM. All climbing suspended since 26th March and all at BC.
MP Khanal, MFA - 27 March 75
C3 established 18 March at 5800m by Seiji Shinizu, Motoyashi Tanaka and Dawa Norbu.
MP Khanal MFA - 20 March 75
C2 established on 10 March at 5270m by Kohara, Maruyama and Kashima.
Akira Takahashi - 24 Jan 75
Was here with Manaslu expedition.
All members arrive KTM 15 Feb on TG
Base camp on Myagdi Khola at 3500m
Leave KTM 12 Feb by road to Pokhara; in Pokhara 3-4 days to arrange porters; leave Pokhara about 15 Feb by bus and then foot for 15 days. Arrive BC about 1 March.
Most difficult climbing C2-C6; more difficult than Manaslu: vertical rock ridge on Dha I.
C6 about 7600m
Summit middle May
80 days BC->summit->BC
1 sirdar and 6 Sherpas, probably not able go above C2. Sirdar is Sange.
300-350 porters, about 12 tons baggage including climbing oxygen.
- 내부 원정 ID2307
- 원본 EXPIDDHA175101
- 대장Takashi Amemiya
- 루트 (Route)S Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6200m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)
참가자 21명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Takashi Amemiya | Japan | Leader | - | - | - |
| Kazuharu Kohara | Japan | Deputy Leader | - | - | - |
| Noboru Ayabe | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Tetsu Imura | Japan | Climber | - | - | 사망 |
| Susumu Ishikawa | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Yorimichi Kashima | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Naomichi Kasuga | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Yasuji Kato | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Toshiaki Kobayashi | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Takashi Maruyama | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Katsumi Naganuma | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Katsuo Ninomiya | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Yoshitada Numao | Japan | Climber | - | - | 사망 |
| Seiji Shimizu | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Akira Takahashi | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Kenichi Takemori | Japan | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Motoyoshi Tanaka | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Dakiya Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | 사망 |
| Dorje Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | 사망 |
| Pasang Kami Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | 사망 |
| Sange Sherpa | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | - |