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Kodama & Yokoyama - 16 May 75

Arrive KTM Today; left BC 10 May - others arrive 27 or 20 May (leave BC 18 May).

6 May - 1st summit attack by Fujiwara and Yamamoto; no success because very strong wind and route very difficult; they reached 7300m and returned to C6 at 70000m where also were Kodama, Otsu and Nakamura.

7 May - C7 Ham tent broken and on Kodama's left hand some fingers frozen; only one tent C7 tent replaced by C5 tent and all 5 down.

9 May - Summit attack reached summit 5:30 pm; weather "little good." Talked on radio to relay camp at about 7000m with Shin Kashu and he relayed messages to Nishimura at BC (Nomura did not return to expedition).

Kawazu says at 8 o'clock 5:30 pm success and going down, but Yasuda very weak and now biv at 7400m.

10 May - No contact. Kashu and Nima Kancha in relay camp go up for rescue and find nobody at C7 site 69500m and back with binoculars but see nothing. But 1000m downwards on South Face on glacier 2 bodies can be seen. Could not go to bodies because very difficult. So all members came down and climbing finished.

C6 Relay camp on West-East Ridge between point 6921m and 7108m. C7 on ridge beyond point 7108m towards Dhaulagiri IV. Route was traverse North Face via ridges from relay camp to C7 to summit.

All other members Ok. Kodama and Yokoyama go to Japan Monday.


MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

Kawazu and Yasuda reached summit 9 May 5:30 pm from temporary C6 at 7000m. Could come down only 200m and biv that night. Contacted BC by walkie-talkie and informed of success and could not descend more 200m. No more radio contact after that. Slope slippery ice and dropped rucksack and food stuff that evening. Leader assumes they stayed night at same place 7400m.

Next day no radio contact. 1 member and 1 Sherpa went up from C7 but didn't find them and returned back; coming back they saw black objects about 1000m below on glacier; saw by telescope.


MP Khanal - 16 May 75

1st attempt failed. C7 made 5th May by Fujiwara and Yamamoto.

Made attempt but failed because bad weather. 2nd pair started from C7 on 8 May, but went up only 200m and bived.


Nomura - 23 March 75

Nomura arrived KTM yesterday. Returned because of stomach trouble, for which he going to Japan for treatment. May return to Nepal after 2-3 weeks and helicopter to BC. But climbing leader capable of directing expedition. Nomura leaves KTM for Japan tomorrow.

Expedition should reach BC on 27 March; he turned back at Beni.


MP Khanal, MFA - 20 March 75

Dhaulagiri V leader got sick and he has gone back to KTM, says message from Baglung sent 18 March.


Nomura & Nishimae - 7 March 75

Leave KTM 10th by road to Pokhara. 13th leave Pokhara. 2 weeks caravan up Kaphe Khola (same route as up 1970).

Arrive BC at 4100m site of 1970 (see Dhaulagiri IV map) and same as Meiji's Churen BC.

Route in lower part same as 1970 but not onto North-South Ridge south of Dhaulagiri VI but just south of Junction Peak. Whether go over or around peak, hope ridge this for north to climbable.

There is col between Junction and Dhaulagiri IV at 6900m where Austrian 1969 had last camp.

Leader was climbing.
6 high camps with highest hopefully above col towards summit.
5 Sherpas including sirdar and 1 cook. Don't expect Sherpas high.

Summit attempt about 10 May.

Most dangerous part is rock ridge and sanct from south and northern approach ridge. Think "ours is safest route." Many porters in southwest area without accident.

"We should have success we have strong party, many good climbers."