원정 개요

Kanasugi - 3 June 75

Kanasugi, Yamaguchi and Kawashima arrived today. No place above 6700m for campsite; were climbing South Face, not East Ridge which was too steep rock and no place for camps. On South Face put 3 camps and then again some problem of camp site. Reached about 7300m on 16 May by Ojura and Yamaguchi. Used so many days to fix rope up to this point and above this point (avalanche 50-55 degrees) still no place. Every day snow and avalanches from 1st May between C2 and C3.

South Face possible if special equipment; need a C4 to reach summit.

Others reach Pokhara tomorrow with baggage (except leader in Tokyo). All well. No accidents, no frostbite.


Kobayashi - 19 May 75

Expedition leaves BC 25 May. Kobayashi meets in Pokhara, he leaves KTM 20 May; he arrives KTM 17 May after leaving BC 10 May.

10 May expedition C3 at 6700m and reached 7000m - C4 maybe; very steep to site at 7500m.

Climbing by snow and ice South Face not East Ridge which is very difficult; near summit reach South Ridge.

All members very well, no accidents.
Some local porters say see yeti.

Hope expedition will succeed but not much time left.

Kobayashi reached 7000m and from there route appeared no so difficult to top; reached there making route on 4 May with Ojima (they 1st to reach that altitude).


Umeki, leader Dhaulagiri V - 13 May 75

Above and C3 very steep ice 1000m or more; maybe not make C4, but use biv and from there to summit; no accidents so far.

Base camp near Dhaulagiri V BC.


Tanaka - 11 Feb 75

1 member (Tanaka) arrived KTM
3 members arrived KTM 27 Feb
1 KTM resident last year

Leave KTM 5 March to Pokhara by road with 2 catching up. Caravan ex-Pokhara 10 March with 100 porters.

Arrive BC 20 days via Myagdi Khola - at turn left south of point 4996
Dhaula Himal map and BC on glacier beyond P 4996 - BC 4700m

Route via SE Ridge from South; reach ridge half way between Dhaulagiri II and point 6559; very difficult route; all others approached from north. This 1st attempt from south (not from S just because closed; takes much money for north side because long caravan requiring many porters).

5 high camps - C5 7500m summit 10-20 May

5 climbing Sherpas including sirdar, 1 kitchen boy, 1 butcher and 1 mailrunner.
Kobayashi, Kato and Kawashima arrive KTM 16 March; [they saw Khanal] arrive 19 March.