원정 개요

Kikuchi - 4 May 75

Kikuchi and Tsushima arrived yesterday by helicopter. Ono frostbite both hands mostly 3rd fingers, Tsushima right 3rd finger. Neither will lose anything; happened descending from C3.ABC at 6215m.

16 April snowfall 2m one night and C3 no food. Summit day planned for 14 April but this day and next heavy snowfall.

5-man party would go to summit 14 April:
Sakai
Kudo
Sirdar Dawa Wuncha
Ono
Tsushima

Making route for descent; other 3 no frostbite.

From C3.ABC 2-3 hours to summit.

C3.ABC pitched by all members 12 April.

13 April 5 in C3.ABC; made route to about 6315m, very difficult here, very soft, deep snow up to chest (1-1/2m).

Route not original plan of SE Ridge, but East Face of 1970 expedition because ridge too much snow upon arrival at mountain (no BC change).

Kikuchi wanted to continue climbing, but no food and 2 members frostbitten so stopped 21 April.

Other members 6 May arrive KTM by trucks with baggage.
Ono and Tsushima leave maybe 5 May; others including leader 23 May.

Kikuchi brings another expedition to another higher peak in Nepal in 1977.


MP Khanal, MFA - 30 April 75

Due to continous bad weather, climbing abandoned since 21 April; plan to leave BC 28 April for KTM.


MP Khanal, MFA - 30 March 75

BC 3500m 21 March, Upper Chuling Khola, plan to start climbing 25 March.


Hisanori Sakai - 1 Feb 75

2 now in KTM; all 4 others arrive 27 Feb.
Will climb via SE Ridge, same route as Japanese 1971 expedition.
Leave KTM 6 March by road to Trisuli; leave Trisuli 14th March.
2 weeks to BC at 4000m; 3 high camps, C3 about 5900m
Summit about 20 April, hope all members on top
2 Sherpas including sirdar