원정 개요

Umeki - 13 May 25

Umeki and Karo left 5th May and arrive KTM 10th May; others arrive 24th or 25th with equipment.

No accidents, no frostbite, no Sherpa trouble; many members climbed White Peak 6300m from there very long, narrow difficult ridge and at high altitude; most difficult part 1st to reach top White Peak (Yamasaki).

On 17th April, 3 days before C3 established C4 at 7000m higher placed so no need for C5. Summit 1st May noon by Moiroka and Pemba Tsering with 3 men up to 7480m in support making route for descent and film from C4.

1st May 3 men left - Ishihara, Ogura, Kuroda

No other summit attempts.

Wait in Kathmandu for main party.


MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 75

Summit 1 May 12:00 hrs.
Masaki and Pemba Tsering
Nepal and Japanese flags
Another attempt not known.


MP Khanal, MFA - 9 April 75

3 members and 2 Sherpas established C2 at 5900m on 3 April (no names given).


Umeki - 10 Feb 75

Leave KTM 12 Feb
Leave Pokhara 15th Feb
14 days caravan. South Ridge route.
15 Sherpas including sirdar. Summit about 30th April-1 May.
1 press member who stays BC.


Kawaguchi, et al - 27 Jan 75

3 on 14th Jan - other 18 4th Feb

Climbers leave Kathmandu 12 Feb (8th Feb, 4 medical group leave)

Total 21 - 4 medical
- 2 geographical
- 13 climbers
- 1 doctor
- 1 general leader

By road to Pokhara and leave there 15 or 16 Feb via Myagdi Khola to BC southeast of Dhaulagiri V on Tsaurabang Glacier.

Route is South Ridge

1st attempts on D-V in 1971, both by South Ridge, both Japanese and unsuccessful.

This expedition's recce party last year spring climbed White Peak (6300m) to 5000m.

This expedition will climb White Peak and thence north on ridge, really South Ridge route; earlier expeditions tried via much steeper slopes north of White Peak onto South Ridge.

4-week caravan; reach BC mid-March; BC 4200m; 5 high camps with C5 at 7200m
Summit beginning of May
15 Sherpas for climbing including Sirdar.
Medical team go to BC area and then southern Nepal; geologist to stay in BC.