원정 개요

Maeda, Matsunoto & Iwai - 24 May 75

Highest point 7200m on 30 April by Suwa, Ichino and Simoyama. C5 would have been at about 7500m and last camp.

Big block ice broken above and avalanche with new snow from 7400m on 1st May 1 pm. Hit C4 and lost H-A equipment and all oxygen and 1 tent broken. Sato carried in snow slide 30m from C4 and Tamai inside tent, buried but got out. Sato dug out Tamai (Sato was outside clearing way snow and could save Tamai).

Next day, route-making time: 3 fresh men came up to make route. Ice block broke off and fell with new snow which went over Tamai, who making route and covered head with rucksack.

Iwai and Matsui up to C3 to C4 on 1 May decided wait 3 days but weather not good with heavy snow every day with 50 cms daily; routes rope and flags buried. All C4 men down to C3 2 May to await a good weather but not come good weather. May 4 decided finished.

No other accidents, no frostbite.


MP Khanal, MFA - 7 May 75

Abandoned 5 May due to continuous bad weather. Reached 7200m. Lost some equipment in avalanches.


Kazuo Ichino - 1 Feb 75

Now only Ichino in KTM, others arrive 5 March and leave KTM 10 March by road to Trisuli and same caravan route to BC at 4100m about 24-25 March.

Route East Ridge - this 1970 expedition was successful.

6 high camps - C6 7600m
Summit 5-6 May
8 Sherpas including sirdar and 5 local HA porters = 14