원정 개요

Nakajima & Hamaguchi - 5 June 75

Climbed West Ridge to West Peak; Hasegawa and Kono arrived 13 May.

C5 at 7000m very difficult rock route from C5 to top.

Summiters had to biv after summit on 13 May at about 7170m; reached top 4 pm from C5 at 5:30 am; no tent or sleeping bag for biv, only clothing. Biv place very luckily rock cave and no wind or snow - outside. Reached C3 at 6:30 pm 14 May.

C5 established 12 May by summiters and 2 others Asa and Pemba Lama Sherp.

2nd attack 14 May by Kando, Sakamoto and Pemba Lama unsuccessful; reached biv site 5 pm and next day very tired and very dangerous because their fatigue and bad weather; left C5 5:30 am on 15th and they came down.

All rock climbing, very difficult; fixed rope 3000m and 3 rope.

Ladders from C1 to C5 almost all way; same route as Italian 1969 and Japanese 1974

No accident, no frostbite; all members here today and all well.
Strong team and good weather cause of success.

"Our team is very strong" - 10 members

1st planned Dhaulagiri V by north, but this route closed and so now go to Churen; on 15 Dec 1975 chose Churen Himal.


Nakajima & Hamaguchi - 7 March 75

Leave KTM tomorrow by road to Pokhara; caravan start 13th March; 2 weeks to BC at 4100m (same as site as Dhaulagiri IV BC).

Route same route as last spring: West Ridge to West Peak
6 high camps, C6 on ridge at 7000m
Summit attack about 10th May
6 Sherpas including sirdar