원정 개요

5 Sept 79

Kunaver says they were on Nuptse, but see [below] Messner Aut 1979 here.

Route really South Ridge on far left of face to West Ridge, similar to Japanese 1973 and 1976 routes.

4 Sherpas injured by avalanche 20 April.
C3 destroyed by avalanche 7 April.


Messner - Aut 79, re Lhotse Spr 1975

[Ales Kunaver had told me Italians actually climbed on eastern ridge of Nuptse's South Face].

We reached top of big snowfield and start of rocks on face still part of Lhotse, east of lowest saddle between Nuptse and Lhotse, west of 7703m.


Ales Kunaver - 5 Sept 79

Italian Lhotse expedition actually never was on Lhotse: they went up on eastern ridge of South Face of Nuptse to top of snowfield and stopped climbing (walking) where rock began.


Messner - 25 May 75

Highest point reached was 7400-7500m on 6 May by Gogna and Barbacetto. Afterwards May 7 night avalanche hits C3 ocuppied by Leviti and Barbacetto. Avalanche air pressure destroyed camp and for 10 days too dangerous to go up to C3 because too much snow but C2 and C3 after that decided to stop.

South Face direct possible will be climbed in 20 years, biggest problem of Himalayas. 2 or 4 persons very well acclimatized up in 4-5 days in alpine-style and with lighter plastic tent equipment then presently available.

South Face to left possible now with good weather.

Cassin: made 6 expeditions and this 6th one. More problems: 2 avalanches and sick doctor and 1 month every base camp 2 avalanches 20th April and BC moved; 4 Sherpas not badly hurt.

After 1 week saw direction too dangerous with expedition.


MP Khanal - 16 May 75 (from LO on 15 May 75):

Lhotse abandoned from 15th due bad weather (7400m assumed highest). Leave BC 20 May.


MP Khanal, MFA - 13 May 75

After reaching 7400m altitude, weather became very bad and all members and Sherpas have come down to BC and have not yet decided whether to abandon climbing or not. Leave BC 20 May.


MP Khanal, MFA - 9 May 75

Route up to 7400m prepared to C4 on 7 May. Avalanche again at 9 pm. 2 tents C3 slightly damaged, but Leviti and Gogna escaped unhurt.


MP Khanal, MFA - 30 April 75

Heavy snowfall hampering progress to C3.


MP Khanal, MFA - 25 April 75

Lhotse resumed climbing on 23 April. 3 members and 6 Sherpas started up. Injured Sherpas recovering well.


MP Khanal, MFA - 22 April 75

Lhotse LO reports their BC being transferred to safer place. All members and Sherpas busy with this. Injured Sherpas being taken to Khunde Hospital.


MP Khanal, MFA - 21 April 75

Avalanche on Lhotse injured 4 Sherpas at BC 20 April at 6 am:
Pasang Norbu
Ang Chetar
Lhakpa
Puncha Kitar


Chierego (In Ktm) - 9 April 75

Letter from Cassin received yesterday:

6500m 6 April, 1st and 2nd camps established. Route not very easy but is possible. Began to climb by Japanese route [hope in a month to return with victory]. All climbers in good conditions. BC is already finished (completely stocked).

Chierego had edema and pneumonia; stays in hospital still; hopes to leave KTM after 5-6 more days.

Piussi left KTM 4 days ago returning to expedition.


MP Khanal, MFA - 7 April 75

C2 6300m 6 April by 2 members and 2 Sherpas (no name given).


Gogna & Cassin - 16 March 75

18 March all will be in Lukla
8 already there (3 Sat 5 today)
7 in KTM now

1st group in Namche on 18th and wait there for others. All reach BC 23-25 March; better not to go fast.

10 Sherpas including sirdar.


Gogna - 8 March 75

Fly to Lukla after 1 week. To BC at end of Lhotse Glacier on west side at 5300m before 25th March.

Not same as Japanese 1973 whose route was to Col on ridge but Nuptse and Lhotse. Italian will 1st try South Face direct to Main Peak. Not really interested in Intermediary Peak but could go that way if better climbing; could also go Japanese way if direct not possible.

6 or 7 high camps; summit about 20-23 May.

South Face is quite like Annapurna I South Face, same difficulty. Faces unclimbed in world others are South Face of Everest and North Face of K2.


Cassin - 4 Oct 74

Lhotse 1975 South Face
15 members including Reinhold Messner

Riccardo Cassin (Lecco, Italy) to be leader
13 alpinists
1 leader
1 deputy


Letter from Lhotse BC, April 2nd 1975 by Riccardo Cassin

Italian Lhotse expedition decided to try a new route in the western section of Lhotse South Face, which was attempted by a Japanese party on spring 1973.

In the last two days it was reached the place in which tomorrow we will establish our Camp 1, at 6000m.

All the climb is equipped with fixed ropes. It is lightly snowing every afternoon.

Our doctor, Mr. Chierego, was evacuated today from Dingpoche to KTM. He was sick by "edema polmonare." Another member, Mr. Piussi, flied with him to KTM.