원정 개요

Arazzola & J. Lopez - 4 May 75

Everyday have to make new steps; almost every afternoon snowing.

Rivas and Miguel Lopez hoped to go to top 24 April but were really exhausted by effort crossing ice walls and weather not so good, so wisely went to C4 instead - planned go to C2.

24 April Jeronimo Lopez, Blazqeuz and Sonam to C5 to go to summit 25th, but 25th not good weather and waited in C5.

26th beautiful day and they started at 6 am for top. Went to top at 2 pm; on way found body of one Austrian member [Schlick or Jager] halfway in ice in such position seemed he died of exhaustion, 50m from near edge of summit plateau, 1-1/2 to 2 hours from C5; in yellow jacket. "All time going up we thinking of him." Ice axe 10m away from body. Very easy to lose way on plateau in clouds, impossible to make snowhole near them probably now.

Route about same at Japanese women. Think their C5 little higher then Spanish C5.

Return to C5 5:30 pm and then to C4 to sleep. 27th they went down to C2 and whole expedition then came down because more snow 26/27 night and Luis Durand in C4 has frostbite on foot from helping making route to C5 and Jeronimo Lopez frostbite both feet (will lose little). Difficult for Lopez to walk and called helicopter for 6 members and today Alfonso Arias Pacheco, Carlos Soria Fontan, Gerardo Blazquez Garcia.

All in KTM except Jaime Garcia who comes later today or tomorrow.

Success this time because pre-monsoon weather better. Did have many avalanches this time too but able to avoid them.

Leave KTM about 7 May


MP Khanal, MFA - 28 April 75

26 April 2 members, 1 Sherpa Sonam summit.


Letter from 18 Apr 75

We arrived to C4 (7040m) and put there tents. But after, we have had a terrible weather, with huge wind and had snow at C1 and C2 about 2-1/2 meter snow.

We have to open again the way to C3 and C4. If weather continued like today (beautiful weather).

On 28th we arrived to Sama and on 29th we established the base camp, lower than last year at 3850m, the 31 Rivas, Soria, Blazquez and J. Lopez.

We began today our 5 days of walking. We have to stay at Lebu, and this night we shall sleep near the Doban Khola River.

Weather is good, some days too warm. Until now all thinks all right.