한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Expedition to Yalung Kang

Yalung Kang · 1975 · 봄 (1) · Austria

원정 개요

Sturm - 3 June 75

[All arrive today ex-Biratnagar].

Summit dates and people of MFA report correct. Worked in 3 teams of 3 men each, taking turns about making route. Highest camp C4 at 7800m.

No accidents, no frostbite, no avalanche damage.


MP Khanal, MFA - 16 May 75

12 May - 2nd summit 11:30 am - Helmut Wagner, Peter Vogler, Gerd Baur.
13 May - 3rd summit 11:00 am - Guenter Sturm, Sepp Mayerl, Fritz Zintl

Slight wind these 2 days but weather quite good.

[record no of summiters on 8000m peak since 1965 Everest]


MP Khanal, MFA - 12 May 75

Success from South Face 9 May, midday by Michel Dacher, Erich Lackner and Rolf Walter.


Dr. Curt Fischer - 9 May 75

He arrivde BC 28 April and left 3 May and then had already the camp 26 or 27 April at 7600m. One 8000m oxygen deposit but not another camp; otherwise 1 more camp.

All very strong especially Sturm, Lackner and Walter and Dr Zintl at C3. Very good relations with LO and Sherpas. Very good weather while Fischer there, but after left BC had 2 days rain so may be snow on mountain.

Hope summit next week Yalung Kang definitely; are on South Face.
Not used oxygen up to 7600m C4.

May leave by 2 Pilatus Porters from Taplejung.


Aeberli - 9 March 75

Leave 14th road to Dharan and leave 16th March. 18-19 days to BC at 5500m, nearly same place at Evans in 1955. South Face of Yalung Kang, not Japanese ridge routes. 6-7 camps above base.

Hope summit by middle May because long way back and it's first mountain to get the monsoon.

14 Sherpas including cook and kitchen boy.
Don't know which part most difficult technically, since no photos of face.

9000 kg baggage.

Mail via Col. Angdi, Annapurna Trekking

  • 내부 원정 ID2294
  • 원본 EXPIDYALU75101
  • 대장Siegfried Aeberli
  • 루트 (Route)S Face
  • 최고 도달고도8505m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 12명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Siegfried AeberliAustriaLeader---
Gerd BaurW GermanyClimber성공사용-
Michel DacherW GermanyClimber성공사용-
Erich LacknerAustriaClimber성공사용-
Josef (Sepp) MayerlAustriaClimber성공사용-
Guenter SturmW GermanyClimber성공사용-
Peter VoglerW GermanyClimber성공사용-
Helmut WagnerAustriaClimber성공사용-
Rolf WalterAustriaClimber성공사용-
Roman A. ZinkW GermanyExp Doctor---
Friedrich (Fritz) ZintlW GermanyClimber성공사용-
Urkien SherpaNepalSirdar---

출처·참고문헌

· 1975 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Erfolg Kantsch 8438mSturm, Guenter · 1975 · 단행본 (1) ·
Der Turm in MirMayerl, Sepp · 1975 · 단행본 (1) ·
· 1975 · 잡지 (3) · MM
KangchenjungaDyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman · 1975 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Kantsch-Expedition 1975Aeberli, Siegfried · 1975 · 학술지·저널 (2) · DAV
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651201/Yalungkang · 1975 · 웹사이트 (5) ·