원정 개요

BC east of ridge coming south from West Peak
C1 at east side of South Ridge = South Face
C2 at east side of South Ridge = South Face
C3 on SW Ridge
C4 at north side of West Ridge near its junction with SW Ridge and South Ridge.

After C3, returned to BC for "holiday" and then when went back up to C1 and C2 very bad weather (much snow and much wind), so had spend 5 days in C2. Got to C3 13th Oct. On top 16th Oct at 11:00 am in clear weather that morning until just below summit. On top white-out and descent in "big trouble." Okamoto and Takeda 2-day bivouac at 7500m while others on 16th descending had 3-day bivouac at 7300m in traverse from C4. All safely below BC 22nd Oct. BC to C3 rock and snow C3 to summit was 4 km snow plateau of deep snow which took much energy. Technically not difficult.