원정 개요

Hinkes he arrived by helicopter at 5400m on edge of Chago Glacier on 28 May by which time others had made 2 camps with one tent each and fixed rope to 6800m. Hinkes slept in C2 on 29 May and 30th tried to reach Makalu La but at 7200m waited for Zangrilli who it turned out had been hit on face by falling ice (or rock) which made him black out (after Hinkes 3 hours wait) at noon he reached Hinkes but not well and it was late (worried about rockfall at this time of day) so both down to C2 and 31st to ABC. High wind on mountain. Decided 2nd June to give it up.

Zangrilli: Coates didn't acclimatize well and had problem with his nose, so Zangrilli did all the work fixing rope up to 7200m, where he arrived for his first time on 17 or 18 May and where he built up a depot of 2 tents, rope, food, fuel, etc. All ready for summit push when Hinkes arrived from his Lhotse climb. Coates established camps 1 and 2 which were far apart horizontally but not vertically on very long route. On 30 May Zangrilli hit on temple by falling ice at 7100m, which caused him to black out from time to time and vomit, he managed to climb up to Hinkes at 7200m but was blacking out and vomiting still, route was very now very steep hard ice, it was hot at midday and they were wearing hot down clothes so they decided to go down.