한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Spanish Kangchenjunga Expedition

Kangchenjunga · 1997 · 봄 (1) · Spain

원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C2 at North Col
C3 at hand-packed snow field on North Face.

Snowed every day in April; no hope of climbing that month. This team expedition opened route to 6200m since were first to arrive.

De Stefani said he was not strong enough to climb face, wanted to change route to ridge but Spanish did not. He then became friendly with Koreans and climbed their route (still with them now).

14 May was Spaniards third attempt to reach top: 1st was 28 April when stopped by snowstorm at North Col; 2nd below castle. So when fierce winds struck on 14 May, Spaniards descended, no more attempts (Ochoa now frostnipped; others had been on mountain long enough).

Um of Korean expedition: De Stefani went with him (Um) to their highest point at 8350m on 8 May. Re De Stefani's climbing with Koreans, see Koreans expedition's return form.

Um, Korean's climbing leader.

  • 내부 원정 ID2282
  • 원본 EXPIDKANG97101
  • 대장Inaki Ochoa
  • 루트 (Route)N Face (Scott 1979 rte)
  • 최고 도달고도8350m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ignacio (Inaki) Ochoa de Olza SeguinSpainLeader---
Julian Beraza SchwarzSpainClimber---
Fausto De StefaniItalyClimber---
Xabier Guembe EscaladaSpainClimber---
Juan Carlos Pauner GotorSpainClimber---
Jose Antonio Perez Grueso SalonSpainClimber---
Miguel (Mikel) Zabalza AzkonaSpainClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1997 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1997 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830800/Asia-Nepal-Various-Activity-in-the-Pre-Monsoon · 1997 · 웹사이트 (5) ·