원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C3 on North face
C4 at snow field above rock band
C5 at higher snow field.

Had problem in rock band area when Slovak's leader became hostile and refused to let this team use Slovaks ropes, so had to put in own ropes. De Stefani had thrown ice axe at Herries when C2 being pitched on 12 April in fit of temper over Howkin's being on mountain ("she good only for sex," he complained) and then in early May asked to join this team but was refused.

14 May McKee and Howkins made summit bid but turned back at 8200m because of wind.

16 May McArthur, Sieger, Chatwin and Lockhart tried for top but at 7900m encountered Korean's Sherpa who had broken his ankle and US had to bring him to bring him to US C5 (Koreans refused to come to him then and did very little for him). McArthur on 18th descending from C3, slipped on steep ice 20m and fell 8m to C2.5; had cerebral and pulmonary edema before he fell - was completely confused (like a drunk and no recollection of falling) in his zigzag route he took. He was evacuated by helicopter near C1 on 19th.

24 McKee summitted from C5 alone (no one else in C5 that day); left C5 at 6:00 am and on top and 3:00 pm and down to C4 early morning of 25th; was full moon that night but started snowing at 2:00 am as he reached C4.

Heavily snowed from 25th to 27th dumping deep snow on mountain so on 28th Pratt, Mazur and Seiger, only members left, turned back from C4 and climb finished.

Some avalanching especially in afternoons through rocks above and right of C3 but no one hurt.