원정 개요

April 15-17 BC. 18 April set up C1 by all six climbing members and 5 Sherpas. 19 April Yoo and Shin slept at C1. Lhakpa and Tenzing also went to C1 to sleep. 20 April Yoo, Shin and Lhakpa Sherpa climbed 400m and returned to C1. 20 April Um and Kami went to C1. 21 April made fixed ropes up to 6700m and slept at C1. 22 April the three rested at C1 with Sherpas. 23 April went up to 6800m and returned to C1 at 9:30 pm. 24 April all came down to BC. 25-26 April rest at BC.

27 April BC to C1 by Um, Park, Kim, Yoo, Shin and 5 Sherpas. 28 April all went to C2 to sleep. 29 April Kim and Park went to C1 others stayed at C2. 30 April bad weather, snowy, windy, cloudy. C2 member and C1 all came to BC. May 1, 2 rested at BC.

May 3 6 members, 5 Sherpas went to C1 to sleep. May 4 Um, Yoo, Shin, Park went to C2 to sleep (also 5 Sherpas). May 5 Um, Yoo, Shin and 5 Sherpas climbed towards C3 reached 7500m and the four slept there (a bivouac). May 6 Um, Shin, Tenzing and Italian slept at C3. May 7 Um, Tenzing, Italian tried for summit went up 200m. Tenzing did not climb and three returned (there was too much snow & Um was angry with Sherpa) to C3 and slept there. May 8 Um and De Stefani and 2 Slovaks went up to 8350m. Bad weather, too much snow, windy too cloudy. Returned to C1 at 9:00 pm. May 9 BC. May 10-11 rested.

Um, Yoo, Park, Shin, Kim went to C1 and De Stefani and 4 Sherpas went to C2 on May 13. May 14 was windy. Shin and Park came down to C1. Um, Yoo, 4 Sherpas and De Stefani stayed at C2. May 15 Um, Yoo, Ang Kami and Italian went to C3 and slept there. May 16 Um, Yoo, De Stefani slept at C4. Kami and Ang Kami supported but slept at C3. May 17 Um, Yoo and De Stefani came down to C1. Lhakpa and Tenzing went to C2 to rescue Kami Sherpa. May 18 Um, Yoo and De Stefani came down to BC. Shin, Kim and Sarki went to C1. 19 May Shin, Kim and Sarki went to C3 to rescue and met the others on the way. All the rescuers slept at C1. 20 May all came to BC. 21 May rest. May 22 left BC.

US and Spanish group used Koreans tent C3 on 13 May 14 May. Lost ice-axe. Made a mess. There was snow in the tent.

* Um was pulling the Sherpa and his water bottle. Sherpa had earlier inside the tent said he would climb but after 10 minutes he said he would not climb. His mind sort of went blank.

8300m Ang Kami Sherpa
8300m Kami Sherpa
7900m Lhakpa Sherpa
6900m Sarki Sherpa
7900m Tenzing Sherpa

On 16 May Kami Sherpa was returning after setting C4. He fell down 400m. He lost crampon and his ankle was sprained. The Sherpas at C3 went up to and brought him down to C3