원정 개요

Lower BC Tangmar
ABC at south end of Chago Glacier above its junction with Barun Glacier
C1 at plateau at north side of West Pillar
C2 on West Face just to left of West Pillar
C3 on West face just to left of West Pillar
C4 on West face just to left of West Pillar
C5 on West face just to left of West Pillar.

Wall began at about 5800m between C1 and C2 - most fixed rope from C3 to above C5 at 7500m (total 1300m here) on 50 degree avalanche ice. After twice going to 7300-7500m fixing rope and acclimatizing, 3 days rest in lower BC, then 6 members (all except Efimov, Bychkovski and Klepikov) make push for summit, leaving lower BC 9 May, from ABC 11 May with other 3 members 2 days after. 1st 3 members biv at end of fixed rope at 7600m on 14 May. May 16 six members at this biv, now a camp. Biv at 7670m on 17 May. 18 May reached 7750m and biv. 19 May biv 8000m. 20 May 8150m last biv. 21 May 6 men started for summit but at 8200m Khabibulin stopped ascent and body found there by other 5 in their descent (died of exhaustion and altitude). 5 reached summit within half an hour of each other and slept in last biv. Was most difficult climb of their lives with 8 ropes of vertical rock and ice. At 8000m joined top of West Pillar and summited by West Pillar route up South Ridge. This line to right of Kurtyka-Kukuczka-MacIntyre line of 1982. 22nd May descended to 7650m and 23rd 3 men in C5 while Jiline to C3 and Ermatchek would later also C3. 24th 3 from C5 went for C3, but Bougatshevski was struck by falling rock at about 6800m on head and was killed. 2 men from C3 to ABC that day. 25th other 2 reached ABC - all in lower BC 26th.

Oxygen: Bougatshevski used on 22 May because of pain near liver - he was only member to use oxygen.

This was a good team. Khabibulin was leader of their climbing effort and was very good technical man who was able to lead sections no one else could. He worked so very hard he had no strength left, sat down to rest and never got up.