원정 개요

C2 in West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
C5 before South Summit (biv with one 2-man tent as cover for 8 men on descent).

Indonesian Everest - south side

26 April 12:55 am summit party left BC: Asmujiono, Misirin, Iwan Irawan, Bachkirov, Boukreev, Vinogradski, Apa, Dawa Nuru and 7 more Sherpas (total 15). 7 Sherpas stopped below Hillary Step because weather cold and snowing and party was slow (2:00 pm when stopped on Russian instruction). Vinogradski and Iwan stopped at 8800m because Iwan very tired and slow; reached biv-C5 at 8:00 pm with 3 others who summitted. Apa and Anatoli made trail to top and others followed. Apa and Anatoli on summit 2:25 pm; other 3 summiters at 3:26 pm. Hillary Step very dangerous because very steep and very high altitude 27th biv, party started down at 9:30 am, when sun's warmth reached them and slept at C4: reached C2 on 28th. No more summit parties sent up because national team had succeeded already and with uncertainty about weather did not want to take more risk. In C5 climbers thought all oxygen finished, but found 4 bottles on 27th and used it. Misirin "ran" to summit for last 50m after shouting a call to the spirits "commando!" Boukreev said; it was he who told Iwan Setiawan that he must turn back only 10 vertical meters before summit; Boukreev wanted no tragedy; this despite Indonesians motto "tis better to die than fail."

Rochadi - 12 May 97: Misirin blacked out for more of 2 minutes at summit; Vinogradski (a doctor) pulled him to his feet and he was Ok (had raced to summit too quickly).

Misirin did not actually reach the summit of Everest. Boukreev wrote in his book, The Climb, pages 247-8," ... I ordered everyone down. Vinogradski turned and went to Iwan, who was about eighty meters from the summit poles. I reached Misirin, thirty meters from his goal. I knelt beside him, collapsed in the snow. I told Misirin he had achieved the summit. I was amazed to see him stand, collect his power, and begin the descent. We encountered Vinogradski and Iwan descending one hundred meters below the summit. It had been difficult to turn these men around, they had come so far, but now I insisted. Every minute was important. We would compromise our plan for survival if we did not descend in the light of the day."