원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Delgado started for top at 11:20 pm on 22nd with Tenzing, who was carrying 4 oxygen bottles and using oxygen himself; at about 8500m at 3:00 am Delgado started to use oxygen and kept using it till return from summit and met Rodriguez at South Summit on his way up at 11:30 am (after Delgado spent 1-1/2 hours on top) and he was perfectly well but his oxygen almost finished; Delgado gave him Delgado's bottle and so Delgado finished his descent without it till 8500m where found a bottle which he used it till it used up almost at Col, where there was more.

26th May Muir's party left col 10:00-11:00 pm, on top at 10:30 am 27th (all 3 used oxygen) and returned safely to Col.

Sherpa summiters:
Keepa, Kharikhola, Everest twice before and other 8000m
Tenzing, Thami, Everest 3 times before
Dorje, Everest 5 times before
(aka Dorje "Lambu" - Lambu means tall in Nepali)


Jon Tinker, OTT Everest S Leader - 30 May 97

Best guess as to cause of Mal Duff's death is heart attack or something similar to cerebral thrombosis. He was found lying on his side with a book in his hands. No smell of liquor on him, no bottle in his tent although he was a heavy drinker. (Duff was best man at Tinker's wedding).


Dr. Yuri Contreras, (H Todd Team) - 31 May 97

Duff's death very probably due to heart attack.