원정 개요

BC northwest end of Tilicho Lake
C1 at top of NW Ridge.

27 Sept porters left baggage at Tilicho Lake south end, one day before BC because deep snow so took expedition to ferry loads to BC seven days. Then 6 Oct began to snow heavily again and stopped only on 21 Oct.

22 Oct tried to make fast push to top by Beltran, Granizo Maldonado, Roca Egea and Tenzing from BC in alpine-style, but too deep snow and turned back at 6000m.

25 Oct a huge black bird pushed gas and food down mountain and team in C4 (where these supplies were) were unable to have hot drink. Despite this loss, they attempted summit but now very cold and wind very strong.

Now expedition unable to mount new summit bid: no more time and with cold and wind, snow blown away leaving very difficult hard ice. Summer weather to winter weather (Tilicho Lake green grass on arrival: 4 days alter 1-1/2 m snow).

9th Oct big avalanche off NW Face came near BC, hurt no one but wind and powder snow damaged BC. Very slight frostbite in Tenzing's fingers 26 Oct.