원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Buckland was client of Simonson with Wilson as 2nd guides Corfield was Burleson's client, GPS (Global Position Survey) system for Brad Washburn's project was Berg's "client." Were a cohesive team who climbed together. 24 May 1st summit bid made by all members except Buckland (who had left BC 8 May for home because he felt he had no chance to get above C3, which he had reached) and 8 Sherpas; got to 8200m at 2:00 am of 24th and returned to South Col because weather not good (cloud and wind) and decided to save themselves for better day. All left C4 at 11:30 pm (with one more Sherpa) for 2nd summit bid, Berg leading with 4 Sherpas and reached top at 6:15 am 25th May: 2 of these Sherpas had GPS equipment while one other GPS Sherpa got to top, 2 other Sherpas at 7:00 but Berg and his 4 Sherpas had started descent and met at South Summit but Berg had cancelled GPS installation. Berg party at Col 10:00 am and 2 other Sherpas at 12:30 pm; Tenzing Nuru went missing (last man descending): not seen by other 2 below South Summit and vanished in low visability and high wind. Wilson and Simonson turned back together just before arrival South Summit because winds getting strong and visibility poor and back to South Col except Simonson and Burleson down to C2. Burleson and Corfield had been with Wilson and Simonson and continued to South Summit and back for same reasons. Climb ended. Berg and Wilson Sherpas stayed at C4 longer than others to watch for descent of Tenzing Nuru but he not seen (probably fell down East Face from South Summit).

Berg abandoned GPS installation because bad visibility, high winds, not willing to wait for 3rd load of GPS gear to arrive (was not sure it was actually going to arrive at all). Would have taken 2-3 hours to do installation of 2 GPS systems with one antenna standing on top of snow and other antenna anchored on bed rock with drill (half hour to do this job) and producing data from 2 computers he would connect to antennas (and take down with him).

Sherpa Summiters:
Pemba Tenzing, 31, Shibuche, Solu, Everest 1996 with South African expedition
Ang Pasang 31, Pangboche, Everest 1993 spring with British expedition
Tenzing Nuru, about 30, Yilajung (near Thami) - Everest 95 Spring with
Taiwanese expedition
Kami Rita (aka Topke), Yilajung, 28, Everest 1994 spr with US expedition
(summited Spr 1997 as member of Nepalese expedition)
Lhakpa Rita, 30, Thami, Everest 3 times before
Mingma Tshering, 28, Thami, this his 1st 8000m summit
Nima Tashi, 36, Pangboche, Everest 1988 and 1990


Lhakpa Rita 11 June 1997 (Expedition sirdar): Lhakpa and Tenzing were descending from summit together till South Summit; Lhakpa was ahead slightly, then waited one hour on south Col side of South Summit for Tenzing to join him but he didn't turn up and it was very cold so Lhakpa went down alone in visability was very bad - Tenzing probably fell from top of South Summit.

Kami Rita, Lhakpa's brother, carried GPS equipment to summit on 25 May for this American expedition. Although he had also joined Nepalese expedition, he did not take leave from US team to go to Nepal team as claimed since he would then have lost Rs 20,000 as summiter with US. He got equipment allowance from both teams - he went to Island Peak, guiding German client of Americans trekking agent, saw off German at Lukla on 24 March and to Everest BC from Lukla with US loads. Kami Rita and Danuri joined UML's Democratic National Youth Federation in spring 1996 when DNYF started organizing an Everest expedition and this spring both carried loads for both expeditions. Danuri went to Lukla with US team's Sherpas on 29 March. Both stayed in Khumbu and met Nepalese team when it arrived at BC. Danuri went to top on 21 May with OTT summitters and Burleson unhappy he was summitting when he was needed for Burleson clients. 3 other climbing members of Nepal, expedition carried loads for Danuri and Lhakpa Rita.

Kami Rita says he summited as member of Nepalese expedition, which he joined 25 April.


Fax to: Elizabeth Hawley 97
From: Wally Berg

Dear Liz:

I have solved the Kami Rita mystery and it is quite interesting: Kami Rita is Topke. Topke is apparently a "monks name" he was given after studying in the Monastery. The Sherpas on all items at base camp were being very discreet about "The Nepalese Youth Expedition." After you and I met, I learned from several sources that this was a UML expedition funded expedition and that two of our climbing Sherpas - Kami Rita and Danu - were listed on their permit as well as ours. Hence, the "Communist Youth Expedition" is now touting its success. We did see Danu carrying loads in the icefall on one day when he was to be resting and he told us that he was working for the other team. I am quite sure however, that Topke never carried loads or climbed for the UML team. So even though he has admitted to me that he was on the permit for both my team and Nepalese team. He worked for, and climbed with, our team exclusively. Despite what is reported elsewhere, the only team who put people on the summit May 25 was ours.