원정 개요

C1 at North Col
High point on North Face.

21st down to 5800m and BC on 22nd - very sick with throat infection. Arrived ABC 26 April, 27th put tent at North Col, 29th to C1 at Col to sleep. 30th to ABC. 2nd May to C1. 3rd May made deposit at 8200m (gear and tent) and back to North Col. 4th to BC to rest for summit push. 9 May to ABC, 11th to Garcia and Jean Christophe Van Waes of French-Buglarian team. 12th tried to go up but couldn't get above Col because wind too strong to breathe so down BC (Garcia and Debrouwer) on 12th. Up from BC together 19th to ABC, 20th Debrouwer from ABC at 12:00 noon NST to try for summit in less than 24 hours while Garcia and W. Studer left ABC at 10:00 am to go to col for drink and to C2 at 7800m. Debrouwer arrived Col at 3:00 pm; 5:30 again up to 7500m where met Studer in descent who reported very strong wind at C2 so Debrouwer back with Studer to North Col. 21st Debrouwer up again at 12:00 noon at 7400m met Garcia descending but now turned up with Debrouwer; at 7:00 pm are at 7500m for brief stop in dark (wind had blown away snow so slow progress on bare rock) and reached Debrouwer's deposit at 8200m at 6:30 pm; his deposit gone though had been placed between rocks protected from wind (stolen, he is sure) so both down since had no liquid for summit push. 23rd their yaks at ABC so climb finished.

Was on Polish (Pawlowski) permit but climbed independently or with Garcia of that group.