원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Went to Xixa first to acclimatize; got to highest camp only because were first team to arrive. Had no cook or porters, "no help to open the way on the mountain" so reached about 7000m on 24 April. 1st week mountain was only for up, 2nd week Italian arrived. Everest made first carry to North Col on 8 May; slept at Col 2 nights hoping to go up but down on 13th with all others on Col because of strong winds; down to BC after 2 days because winds continued.

18 May to ABC; 20th to North Col, 22nd to C2. 23rd to about 8150m with tent but no sleeping bags, to eat and drink and go on for summit, but snow and wind came in afternoon and at midnight, when waited to start up, saw clouds and snow started falling so returned on am 24th after brief wait for weather to improve and slept at North Col, where snowed all night. 25th to ABC and climb finished because no more time.

Both members did all climbing together; had their one permit for Xixa and Everest.