원정 개요

BC at road head
C1 highest of this season's teams
C2 at North Col
C3 on North Ridge
C4 on North Face
High point below 2nd Step.

1st summit bid from C4 by 6 members Mohammad Sher Khan, Meharban Shah, Mohammad Ibrihim, Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah, Rozi on 30 May and reached 40m below Second Step because very strong wind and at 1:30 pm turned back. Had started at 7:00 am, too late really but this had been advice of Pawlowski. Were worried about boots that were not good enough for extreme cold - slowed also by expectation to use other's fixed ropes which turned out to be in bad condition. Winds began blowing at 11:30 am, winds most terrible in Sher Khan's long experience. In Karakoram don't have such winds for more than a day at a time. Retreated to C4 where 3 stayed for another try. Meharban Khan, Nazir Sabir, Rajab Shah with food to come up on 31st and go to top on 1 June. But 30th night winds were ever much worse and had to go down to ABC/C1.

Weather now turned excellent with winds dropped. On 5 June same six members made ascent C1 to C3 for another summit bid but forced to stay in C3 because of wind and could hardly "escape" to C1 on 7th. Muhammad Ibrahim blown off his feet and knee injured slightly.

On 10th June left C1 to C3 (same six members) and again winds forced to stay in C3 for an extra day; 12th to C4 and 13th left 3:00 am for top and on top of 1st Step 4 members (except Mohammed Sher Khan & Nazir Sabir who were behind). Could see at 8:00 am winds were fierce and Nazir Sabir called off bid. Climb finished and all down to C1 that day.

Pakistanis had expected to climb with Tibetans as joint expedition but Tibetans climbed as entirely separate team with own supplies, camps and high altitude porters (who carried for Pakistanis to North Col once and joined Tibetans members in helping Pakistanis clear North Col camp at end of climb); so on return form for Tibetans team.