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Octavianus - 13 May 97

Indonesian Everest - North Side

Team rested at BC during bad weather period till 16 April when started up again and took loads to C3 site about 24 April and down to C2 and next day to BC for 3 days rest. Again started up 28 April for summit attack and arrive C3 7 May and slept there. 3:00 am NST of 8 May left for top and reached 8600m 7:00 am. All 3 members starting to get frostbitten toes so down and "this was luck" for us because that afternoon (2:00 pm) storm came with wind and snow with fatal results for other teams. Difficult for members to return to C3 because of condition of their toes; arrived C3 at 11:00 am and already very windy. In C3 Sherpas gave massage care to them (including oxygen for one man) for 2 hrs and slept in C2. 9 May to ABC to sleep. Now no time for summit bid and none others have enough altitude experience to make out attempt so climb finished.

* With Sunardi at 8600m was Dawa Tashi (Phurba Tashi), Tsewang Dorje (Ang Rita's son) and Phunchu & Zangbu and Pawlowski) - (8600m reached - others to 8550-8570m).