원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Lost 4 tents to wind with all equipment inside blown away (2 in C2 between 10 & 20 May with 2 others inside to be used for C3).

21st May Pepevnik and Da Nima Sherpa from C2 to C3 while Kozjek, Stiller and another Sherpa from ABC to C1. Another member with Pepevnik had turned back at 8100m (very cold).

22nd May Kozjek, Stiller and their Sherpa from C1 to C3. Sherpa dumped his load and descended. Da Nima down also while Pepevnik up to summit. Pepevnik left C3 at 3:00 am NST and reached top with Andy Evans (of Kazakh expedition) at 11:00 am.

23rd May Kozjek and Stiller from C3 at 5:00 am both without oxygen. At 11:00 am Stiller stopped at top of Second Step, where Kozjek had waited for him; he had had trouble with one crampon and was now exhausted so he returned to C3. Kozjek continued to summit alone and reached it at 1:40 pm and returned to C3 at 7:00 pm. While Kozjek and Stiller were climbing above C3 and it was empty, people from Brice's expedition arrived and set up their tents, when 3rd summit team of Petrin and Tenzing Sherpa arrived at C3 for their summit bid next day, they found all 4 sets of oxygen masks and regulators had been stolen. So because of lack of oxygen equipment, the need to help Stiller (who was now blind from apparent retinal hemorrhages) descending and fact weather was changing, all in C3 went down on 24th and no further summit bids.