원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 on North Ridge snow slope
C3 on North Ridge just before traverse in protected place
C4 on North Face.
High point at North Face below North Ridge.

C3 not slept in till 25 May despite having put equipment there on 27 April: winds too strong - everyone down to BC and ABC. 27 May Blackmore, Tsuzuki, Price, Brice and Karsang (Ang Rita's son) from C4 to 8400m. Tsuzuki technically unable to cope with snow on rock, so Price told her to descend and he went down with her. Brice, Blackmore and Karsang on up for another hour or so looking for fixed ropes but couldn't find them under snow and turned back at no higher than 8450m.

28 May Brice up alone to fix new ropes and find old ones. 29th Brice and Price to top: left C4 at 3:00 am and reached summit Brice at 11:45 am and Price at noon (Tibetans from Da Chimi team ahead left later from C4, caught up with Brice and briefly went ahead: on summit Brice 11:45; 11:55 one Tibetan; Price at 12:10 pm, 2 Tibetans together 12:15 pm - all times NST).

30th Rippel and Okura got top of Second Step (8700m) and turned back because of wind.

1st June Whetu and De Boer got to bottom of 1st Step (8400m) and stopped by wind; climb finished.

** Tsuzuki might have been afflicted on 27th; 28th descended only to C1 and by 30th May, when Brice reached ABC and saw her, her entire body including arms and legs greatly smaller; Brice says this happens to women, even trekkers.