원정 개요

BC at same as theirs in 1984 (below Messner's this spring)
Deposit just below face
High point at bottom of face.

Maximum 3 bivouacs up, one on way down ridge to NW Face. Route same as their 1984 attempt. Last time caught in storm and frostbite. This time will take more food so can stay longer and have special pills to dilate blood vessels in feet and hands to reduce threat of frostbite. Route is to left of Messner's successful 1985 spring route.

25th Oct 3:00 am started up face from deposit. Climbed 500m then Troillet not feeling well and wind blown snow unstable (could avalanche) and then turned back to BC. Too dangerous for only 2 men on this big face. No wind but every afternoon snow and sometimes had. Actually on mountain only few hours. Spent 20 days in a row BC waiting for improved weather.

Spent almost entire month at BC waiting for snow to stabilize. New snow almost every day. Got only to 5600m at foot of NW Face.