원정 개요

ABC at 5555
Int Camp at bottom of face
C2 on North Face
C3 on North Ridge.

Yaks could go no higher than 5555m and this was first problem. Route on unclimbed ridge on North Face-Ridge was very difficult rock covered by hard ice which in turn covered by powder snow so difficult to fix rope but did fix 1350m C1 to C2 and 150m more till decided at 7500m to abandon this direct line and traverse to left to join classical route. C3 reached via traverse by 8 members but did not sleep in C3 but immediately descended. From C3 Zelenski and Sokolov only tried for summit because not enough food, oxygen gas and good weather for more 6 members descended via ascent route.

On 15 May weather bad and all teams down. On 22 May Zelenski and Sokolov returned to C3 via North Face route where had all gear while Ang Rita via North Col, but Ang Rita immediately down again saying he was sick ("Ang Rita was no help on this climb").

2 Russians made C4 23 May, summited 24th and slept C4. 25th to North Col in descent via normal route because too much snow and wind and bad visability to use face route.

Ridge was 3rd ridge from left on North Face.