Russian Shanti Shikhar Expedition 1997
Shartse · 1997 · 봄 (1) · Russia
원정 개요
BC at point 5293m on National Geographic map ENE of Iceland Peak
C1 on small South Ridge below point 6528m and east of 5901m at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge
High point on small South Ridge.
Had no time for acclimatization for alpine-style climb above C2. Had fixed 300m below C1 another 300m above C1; 200m more above C2 and needed 500m more. Bachkirov who had climbed Island Peak in January said Shanti Shikhar no problem. Just like Peak Lenin and team took only 500m rope with them. Had to buy more rope in Chhukung and still not enough. 700m above C2 easy walk on snow but below seracs and others difficulties made slow progress. This not a good route for descent from Lhotse Shar. Every day from 2:00 pm new snowfall for hours; morning clear but much avalanching in area.
After climbing above finished, Baikovski, Koroteev and Cherny went to Lhotse for Lhotse-Lhotse Shar traverse (but Baikovski not on Lhotse permits and so may have problem going up from BC).
Best route to Shanti is via Island Peak. Lhotse Shar ridge to 7100m and then either continue up ridge to Lhotse Shar's East Ridge or traverse east somewhere below it.
- 내부 원정 ID2246
- 원본 EXPIDSHAR97101
- 대장Alexandre Iakovenko
- 루트 (Route)S Ridge at start of Lhotse Shar SE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6400m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유보급·장비 (8)
참가자 8명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aleksander N. (Al) Iakovenko | Russia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Yuri Baikovski | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Pavel Bonadyssenko | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Ivan Brink | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Sergei Katachkov | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Vladimir Koroteev | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Andrei Larionov | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |