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C2 in West Cwm
C3 on West Face.

On 22 May Boukreev started up from BC with Moro and slept nights of 22nd and 23rd in C2; 24th to C3; 25th waited because some snowfall. 26th weather better; started up at 11:45 pm of 25th and Moro on top at 1:30 pm Boukreev joined him at top at 2:00 pm. Now clouds were forming and weather becoming unsettled in afternoon and Boukreev probably had infection in lungs; not in good health. Were equipped for traverse but Boukreev decided too risky for him to do it and Moro not interested in traversing solo. So boredom to C3 that night and BC on 27th. Moro had been climbing with Italian Lhotse expedition, before Boukreev arrived at BC from KTM after Everest ascent in April with Indonesians. Their plan had been to go to Lhotse summit via normal West Face route, traverse by shortest possible route to South Col, summit Everest and descend Everest via North Ridge if possible; would decide descent route via North or South when atop Everest.

Moro on Italian (Da Polenza) Lhotse permit and Henry Todd's Everest permit. Boukreev on Russian Lhotse, Todd's Everest South and Kazakh's Everest permit.