원정 개요

C2 in West Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 on West Face.

After C4 made on 2 May, back to BC because bad weather (very strong wind and very cold). Slept in C4 again 6 May; 7th May fixed route to 8000m. 8 May took more rope to end of fixed rope, wind and cold bad and down to BC same day. Another group in C4 10 May, tried go up on 11th nut too cold and down to BC. 12 May again in C4 and not above C4. 13th down to BC. Went up to camps often to check tents survival in winds and to fix route and carry gear for traverse. 15th down to Deboche to rest and wait for Bachkirov, who arrived there in good health 15th himself. Those from mountain stayed 1-2 days at Deboche before returning to BC. C4 next occupied 23 May by Cherny, Outechev and Zoev; 24th finished fixing rope and reached summit and back to C4. 26th they down to BC.

26th eight remaining climbing members reached summit without oxygen. Left C4 together at 5:00 am and arrived at summit from 11:05 am to 6:00 pm (last one at 6:00 pm was Bogomolov, who had returned to C4 after his feet got cold, warmed them in tent and put on more clothes). It was thought six of these men would traverse to middle summit, but weather was very cold visability was bad so they did not try. In descent Sokolov was first to return to C4 (at 1:30 pm); last coming down were Bogomolov, who got to C4 at 5:00 am on 27th and Bachkirov who died enroute. When these two were so late coming down, 2 members went up to them with tea and oxygen and met them at 8200m at midnight and helped them descend. Bachkirov got to 8000m on his feet; from 8000m to 7900m he was pulled down the snow slope; at 7900m he had no pulse or any other sign of life. His body was tied to fixed rope and at 10:00 am on 27th 2 summiters returned to it and buried it in snow inside a sleeping bag. Climb finished. Bachkirov died because he was exhausted; he was perhaps sick (he had spoken of slight fever on 26th and already in C3 he had been breathing hard and was restless during this night in tent he shared with Sokolov). He had been to Everest summit with Indonesia expedition on 26 April, gone down to KTM on 4 May and stayed in KTM till about 10 May, returned to Khumbu by air, met his teammates at Deboche on 15th and returned to BC 17th May.

Is traverse from Lhotse to Lhotse Shar possible? Savkov: "it is very, very, very, difficult" - very sharp ridge and quite steep.

Sokolov: "Maybe" possible. He would like to attempt traverse from Lhotse Shar to middle summit because that section of ridge is not so sharp, not so steep steep and descent not so difficult. Would not try to go beyond middle summit to main summit.

Summiters on 23 May:
Alan Hinkes - 2:55 pm
Michael Jorgensen (Todd Team) - 3:00 pm

Summiters on 24 May:
Outechev - 3:05 pm
Zoev - 3:10 pm
Cherny - 3:25 pm

Summiters on 26th May:
Timofeev - 11:05
Sokolov - 11:20
Christine Boskoff - 12:00
Babanov - 12:30
Simone Moro and Anatoli Boukreev - 13:30 (independant pair)
Koroteev - 14:00
Foigt - 14:10
Bachkirov - 14:30
Perchin - 14:40
Bogomolov - 18:00