원정 개요

C1 at tip of Icefall
C2 in West ernCwm
C4 next to Henry Todd's team.

This first time Clarke climbed in Himalaya so when Duff died suddenly, Clarke had to take over without leadership experience in Himalayas but sirdar was good.

C4 only small platform space so shared tent with Todd's team and had to coordinate usage of it. Hinkes, who used this team's tents, oxygen, food and Sherpas (used oxygen from C3) and summited from C4 without staying at C4 on 23rd fixed only couple of ropes (of this team) while most ropes in couloir fixed by Russians though Hinkes will claim that he did it all.

24th McDermott tried to make fast ascent from C2 without oxygen. Left C2 at 8:30 pm, reached C4 at 5:00 am, moved up again after drinking there and got to 8300m at 2:30 pm; turned back since was alone (had been climbing with Yates of Todd's team part of way from C4) and it was too late to continue up alone and without oxygen; slept 24th night at C3.

Wright wanted to make summit bid but on 26th snow started and McDermott with getting weak they turned back at bottom yellow band together.

Loredo early hours of 27th tried to summit from C3, reached C4 at 7:00 am, toes getting cold but climbed on high as 8000m before too cold and turned back; climbed without oxygen.

Sherpa Wangchu/Ongchu, young man claiming 8000m experience/results that were not true, was heard wailing in his tent at night and seen limping at BC, claiming frostbite in toes, but he had none.