원정 개요

BC at 4900m at Yalung Glacier (used only by Porters after ABC pitched)
ABC at 5300m at Yalung Glacier
C1 at 6200m at beginning of face on spur to left of icefall
High point at C1 site.

C1 never slept in. All was ready there by 12 Oct as highest fixed camp from which to go to summit in 4 days with tent on Great Shelf but weather turned bad with 3 meters snowfall. Spent days shovelling snow at ABC, sent porters who had stayed at BC for kerosene but porters never returned, so late and gave up attempt, but cleared C1 20 Oct in 2-1/2 to 3-meter deep snow.

Had planned to climb Kangchenjunga South Summit with American Dee Jackson, but at last minute Jackson unable to come, so changed to less difficult objective Central summit.


Kangchenjunga Central:

Gopal [Ganesh] Gurung claims he reached Everest summit on 1984 Dutch expedition and was only climber to do so on this team.

Juan charged with having climbed Island Peak, Parchamo and Cho Oyu in aut 1984 without permits.