원정 개요

May 1 went up for reconnaissance. A few hours and back to ABC. May 4 Murrin, Bygrave, Hubbard, Newbigin, Pierson, Kotov, Mingma, Nima reached 6100m and all slept there except Kotov and Pierson who went to 6400m and slept there. May 5 just two reached C1. May 7 all went to ABC. Bygrave, Hubbard, Murrin decided to go to KTM. Newbigin decided to join other group.

May 8-10 rested. Nima Dorje wanted to join on May 11 and so Kotov, Pierson and Nima started but Nima Dorje reached 6400m, but the other two went to 6500m. May 12 Nima Dorje returned to ABC. May 12 and 13 slept at 6500m. Very windy could not leave the tent. May 14 weather forecast said it would be windy till 18 May so went to ABC on May 14. Stayed at ABC till May 16. On May 17 reached 6500m (C1). 18 May began to climb the ridge and slept at 7100m. The ridge was very narrow. May 19 continued to climb up 250m and reached 7350m. May 20 it was showing. 1 feet fresh snow. Georgi Kotov, guide on this route - went up 200m and traversed to 7550m. Slept there and on May 21 started at 5:30 am and reached summit at 12:30 pm and slept at 7550m. May 22 reached ABC.

Benegas from other OTT group became de-facto leader after Broom left expedition.