원정 개요

Had to break trail for yaks to go above BC through snow 1-2 feet deep. 11 April made transit camp at 17,600 ft but dismantled it next day. 19th made camp 1st because of wind, snow and cold at 22,600 ft, carried to C2 on 20th and down to ABC for rest same day. Left ABC for top 24th: 8 members and 4 Sherpas: C1 that night; next day Johnson turned back not liking look of the weather while other 11 to C2; 26th 4 men and 1 Sherpa to C3: Beavon, Johnck, Bull and Scaturro and Kami Tenzing while Johnson up from C1 to C2. 27th summit reached in snow squall so couldn't see Everest but are certain reached highest point; down safely to various camps that night. 2nd summit team to top in clear weather till on top a cloud came along and obscured mountains to east (but not north and west); saw 1st team's crampon marks and pole they left.

Took 15 May party 45 minutes to 1 hour from plateau to summit on 13th and 15th. All saw the cross, stayed at the top for 2 1/2 hours.

10-15 minutes from top was a silver sign post put by [by Rainer on 30 April.]