원정 개요

BC east of glacier east of mountain
C1 at 5900m at plateau at bottom of face.

May put supply cache on NE Ridge, may go on ridge in acclimatization. Snow ridge on face will probably be route and this is very steep ice from 6200m to 7200m. Will join NE Ridge at 7500m.

2.8m deep snow at BC. Did not go to left of 1980 route because icefall is there. Only fixed rope was 200m very low on mountain. Most of climbing began midnight and climbed all night. 1st days in BC raining all the time and when climbing began were only 4 men (Beg and Brisar decided not to). At first was hard rock climbing, then heavy long snowfall and were on deep avalanching snow on same feature. After C1 established again much snow and 16 Oct started up to plateau. 24 Oct up from C1 for 1st time: to 7000m via normal route to acclimatize. 26 started up face and made biv at 7000m and 27 Oct to 7600m to ridge and [planned to] biv over on ridge but wind so strong had to descend at 3:00 am. Next 5 days terrible winds.

Fierce cold winds following many days of new snow and planned only 1 month on mountain. Now food exhausted went to Kalapani after 27 Oct but weather still bad and gave up).

Belak and Kregar got slight frostbite. "We are lucky men:" very big avalanche 26 Oct ice block just brushed one man. Another time huge serac fell 10 minutes after men crossed beneath. Many snow avalanches: climbed on small ridges as much as possible rather than couloirs for safety.